There is much controversy surrounding the issue of what is the best sugar glider diet. It is believed that sugar gliders need 25-50% protein, 50-75% carbohydrates, and very little fat in their diet. It is possible to provide an all-natural diet, a commercially prepared diet, or a combination of the two. Some say that a commercially prepared diet is properly balanced and that anything other than the sugar glider food is a treat. Others are firm in their belief that the less processed and more natural diet is better. I am one of those in the middle ground who chooses to use a prepared diet in addition to healthy treats such as fresh fruits, vegetables, and sources of natural protein. I feel that variety is important, but economical, simple and easy to prepare is essential to me too.

No matter what diet you choose it is very important to use a diet that has already been tested to make sure it is nutritionally sound. I strongly advise AGAINST coming up with your own diet plan. Please choose a diet that best suits your needs but still provides variety and nutrition. Also, make sure you follow the diet in its entirety. You cannot use part of one diet and part of another diet. Diets are designed to provide a certain balance of vitamins, minerals, fats, carbohydrates and proteins. Not following the diet throws off the balance of nutrients your glider needs.

Gail's Sugar Glider Diet Preference

I use a product called Happy Glider made by Pet-Pro Products in Middletown, Missouri. Happy Glider is available in Breeder Chicken, Chicken, Peanut, Cherry, Apple and a new Melon flavor. A pair of adult sugar gliders will eat about 1/8 to 1/4 of a cup of dry food per day. The flavors of the cereal can be alternated to add variety to the diet. It is recommended that the gliders be given small amounts of fruits and vegetables as well as some fresh protein sources such as crickets, mealworms, yogurt to add moisture and variety in taste and texture to the diet. The dry food should be 2/3 to 3/4 of the glider's diet and everything else should be used as "treats". If you give your sugar glider too many "treats" it won't want to eat its dry food.

As stated above, the Happy Glider is meant to be 2/3 to 3/4 of their diet. Some people choose to soften the Happy Glider pellets with 100% natural fruit juice, yogurt, or baby food. Moist foods spoil easily so make sure everything stays fresh. Your glider may get sick from eating spoiled foods. I suggest that you hand feed everything but the Happy Glider. That way the glider associates the yummy tasty stuff with you. The glider still gets a variety in tastes and textures but the really good stuff comes from you. Eating is part of the glider's social time and one of the biggest activities in their day.

The most common diet related problem in sugar gliders is a calcium deficiency, which is linked to hind leg paralysis. We've been using Happy Glider since spring of 1999 and we have never seen any signs of calcium problems. The Happy Glider is formulated to provide the vitamins and nutrients your sugar glider needs. The gliders must eat enough of the Happy Glider to get the vitamins and nutrients that have been added to the food. If your glider eats too many treats it won't want to heat the Happy Glider diet and that will throw off the calcium balance. If you are worried about the calcium an easy thing to do is to use fruits with high calcium and low phosphorus content (calcium: phosphorus). Ideally it is a 2:1 ratio.

The following items are fresh or frozen with skin. The calcium: phosphorus rations were taken from Nutrition and Diet Therapy Third Edition 1992 West Publishing Company

Keep in mind your glider will only be eating small amounts of fruit so one papaya can be cut up in small pieces and frozen. A fruit salad mixture of raspberries, mango, papaya, grapes, and figs would last quite a while - that is unless you get into it!

Fresh, Frozen, and Dried Fruits and Vegetables

I personally believe fresh, organic fruits and vegetables are the most natural and the best for humans and animals. I do realize fresh, organic foods aren't always available or economical. We do a mixture of fresh, frozen, and dried here at Millermeade Farms but we always look for quality. Sugar gliders eat small amounts of fruit with our diet so left over portions of raspberries, mango etc. can be frozen for later use. Frozen fruits and vegetables should be slightly defrosted so they are not hard but it isn't necessary to bring them to room temperature before presenting them to your glider.

Dried fruits that are 100% natural with no preservatives are a convenient for use as treats, and to have on hand for added variety. Our favorite brand of dried fruits is Higgins bird treats.

Fresh fruits are good to use when traveling to make sure your pet doesn't get dehydrated after extended periods in the pouch.

Protein Sources

In the protein category tofu (13:12) and yogurt (415:326) have better calcium: phosphorus ratios than chicken (17:221) or beef (40:736). Beef is the worst protein food with 18.4 times more phosphorus than calcium. There is a listing of other foods in the back of the Barron's sugar glider book.

Insects

Insects are a natural part of a sugar glider's diet in the wild. Many sugar glider diets require insects as part of the diet plan but as mentioned above there are other sources of protein and not an absolute necessity for individuals with a sensitive stomach. Live, freeze-dried, or canned insects are all acceptable insect treats as long as they were raised specifically for the pet industry. Some mealworms or other insects grown for bait are raised in manure, which increases the likelihood that the insects carry parasites that can be passed on to your pet. Wild caught insects are also at risk for carrying parasites and pesticide residues.

Some people are so afraid that their sugar glider won't get enough calcium that they actually do more harm than good by giving their glider too many additional vitamins and supplements. You can give your glider too much of a good thing. Some diets recommend various types of reptile vitamins to go along with the insects or fruit in the diet. I have never used any of these supplements with my animals and the Happy Glider diet. I would recommend seeking professional advice before adding them to your diet plan.

We have found that the canned crickets smell bad and need to be refrigerated after opening. Live crickets should be purchased from a pet supply store that "gut loads" their crickets to make sure they have maximum amount of nutrients in the cricket. Unless your glider is super quick, it may be necessary to stun live crickets in the freezer, remove the crickets back legs, or put the glider in a feeding cage to make sure your glider catches the crickets before they escape.

Pet-Pro Products

I have had such a success using Pet-Pro Products that I have become a sales representative for them. I am very pleased with their line of Happy Glider Food and treats. A price sheet is attached for your convenience. If you have any questions about Pet-Pro Products feel free to call me at 419-485-3690 or you can contact the company directly at 1-877-977-8310. I am not set up to ship the food but I do sell it at the shows and at the time you purchase your glider. You can order the food directly at 1-877-977-8310. If you use my account number: G2119D, you will receive a 10% discount on your order.

Pet Pro also has a variety of treats, snacks, and goodies for your glider. Be sure and ask for free samples with your order!

Sugar gliders do not require routine shots or vaccinations. We do recommend that once your sugar glider is bonded to you that you take your glider in for a "well pet check up". During these visits your veterinarian will become familiar with your sugar glider's normal behavior and appearance. Hopefully you will become comfortable with your veterinarian's knowledge and expertise with small exotics. Your vet of choice for your dog or cat may not be the best option for your pocket pet. It is better to become acquainted with your veterinarian while your pet is healthy instead of when you have an emergency in the middle of the night or on a weekend. Some clinics will not see new patients other than regular business hours. During an emergency your pet may need immediate attention and you want to be prepared should the need arise.

Sugar gliders can live up to 15 years in captivity. Just like humans and other animals sugar gliders may fall victim to ailments such as cancers, urinary tract infections, colds, and injuries. If left untreated sugar gliders may die at a much younger age. In the wild it is necessary for small animals to hide signs of illness or injury for fear that they will become easy prey of other animals. It is very important that you pay close attention to subtle changes in your sugar gliders routine and behavior. Often times a slight change in eating, sleeping is the only indication of a larger problem.

"Shipping" Stress

All animals and people carry normal amounts of bacteria both internally and externally. The normal flora for a healthy people and animals usually do not present problems but when a body's immune system is stressed the opportunity for illness is greatly increased. When allowed to proliferate normal bacterial flora or new bacteria presented by other animals or pets can cause a disease or disease symptoms to present themselves.

Even though your glider might not be sent via airline or what people normally think of as shipping methods, your glider is still going to a new home at risk for stress related problems. Many suggestions were given in the "Taking Care of a Newly Purchased Young Sugar Glider" section of this handout. I hope that you follow the instructions and contact us if you have any concerns.

Diarrhea

Diarrhea is the most common stress related problem. Severe diarrhea can quickly kill a baby glider, so care should be given to stop the problem as soon as possible. The first thing to do is to try and figure out the cause of the stress and eliminate the stress. Things like introducing a new cage mate too early, too much travel, and too much noise are often overlooked as causes of stress. Food related stressors include: citrus or acidic foods, lactose containing foods, too much of any fruit or simply too much of any new food. Sometimes eliminating the source of the stress and high liquid containing foods in the diet will take care of the problem.

A veterinarian may need to treat the diarrhea with Baytril, Metronidazole or other antibiotic to kill off the over population of bad bacteria. Make sure that you replenish the good bacteria in the gut with a probiotic or other form of L. acidophilus.

Hind Leg Paralysis

Hind leg paralysis is probably the most common sugar glider ailment. It is caused by an unbalanced diet and is usually fatal. The most obvious sign of hind leg paralysis is the inability to use the hind legs. We at Millermeade Farms have been using the Happy Glider sugar glider diet (mainly breeder formula) on over 100 sugar gliders for over four years. We have not had a single case of hind leg paralysis show up in our colony.

Parasites

Sugar gliders, like all other small animals, are susceptible to both internal and external parasites. Some internal parasites are passed down from generation to generation. Other internal parasites may be picked up from crickets, mealworms or other insects that are fed to sugar gliders. The only way to confirm the presence of parasites is for a veterinarian to analyze a fecal sample. The type of treatment recommended will depend on the type of parasite found.

Respiratory Infections

Most respiratory infections can be easily avoided. Keep your sugar glider away from drafts and in a warm part of your house. Sugar gliders can tolerate warmer temperatures much easier than cooler temperatures. If it is too cool for your sugar glider it may stay in its pouch or nest box instead of coming out to eat at night.

• Make sure the little sugar glider baby or babies stay warm in its pouch and cage. We keep our animal room about 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The babies are used to sleeping with their parents and possibly a sibling inside a nest box. Inside a nest box it is even warmer than the actual room temperature. You must take great care in making sure your glider baby doesn't get too cool.
  • First you want to make sure the sugar glider has a warm pouch to sleep in and that the room temperature isn't too cool.
  • Some people like to use a heating pad to help keep their glider warm. Make sure the cover has Velcro all the way across the top so that the glider doesn't slip between the fabric cover and the heating pad. You will also want to make sure the cord is outside the cage. Most gliders don't chew but some will, so it is better to be safe than sorry.
  • Ceramic heat emitters used for reptiles will also work to heat an area of the glider's cage.
  • Other people choose to use a heat light on their glider's cage. Use a black or red light because bright white light is damaging to the sugar glider's eyes.
  • I stay away from heat rocks because they can get too hot.
  • No matter what source of heat you use closely monitor the high and low temperatures of the cage and make sure all cords and electrical parts are out of the glider's reach.
• Keep him/her warm when going in and out of doors. Sudden temperature changes can be very traumatic. I recommend keeping your glider in the pouch provided when taking your glider home. You can then tuck that pouch into your shirt or jacket while traveling or in a zippered travel pouch.
• You will need to make sure your sugar glider baby is eating and drinking in its new home.
  • Lots of times animals are reluctant to eat in their new surroundings or when they are under a lot of stress. Young sugar gliders can be picky eaters the same way young children can be picky eaters. It is best to continue the same diet for at least a month.
  • You may have to try several types of fruits and various sources of protein. Most gliders love banana yogurt baby food or even regular yogurt. If your glider is hesitant in eating try these two foods first. Don't overdo fruits in the beginning. Babies typically don't get much if any fruit here because the parents tend to eat all of the "treats". Just like human babies, too much fruits to a sensitive digest tract can cause diarrhea and other tummy upsets.
  • Young sugar gliders may become disoriented in their new surroundings and it may not be able to find its new water bottle. We suggest using bottled water and if your glider is still hesitant to drink you may add a little Gatoraide or Pedialyte to the water more appealing. Throw away any left over flavored water because it has a greater tendency to grow harmful bacteria.
  • Water from various sources will smell differently and taste differently. If your glider doesn't like the new taste it may be reluctant to drink.
  • Make sure that the food dish isn't some place where the glider might try to cuddle up in it to sleep, and instead get cold and wet from their food.
  • Throw away all soiled or wet food every day.
• Do everything you can to limit stress. Stress is the number one cause of problems in animals going to a new home. The best breeders with the best animals cannot always predict when a stress related illness is going to occur. We do everything we can to prevent problems and by following our guidelines we hope that we can prevent as many problems as possible.
  • Please make sure your glider is warm, comfortable and eating and drinking well.
  • Follow the bonding guide to make sure that you are not causing more harm than good in trying to bond too quickly to your new pet.
  • Keep loud startling sounds and visitors to a minimum. While it is very tempting to want to show off your new pet it is best to wait until your new glider is bonded to you before it is introduced to new people.

Introduction

Sugar gliders make very wonderful pets once they are bonded to their new owners. The goal of the bonding process is to build trust between the glider and its owner. Gliders who trust their owners demonstrate love and affection in a variety of ways and they will actively seek your attention. Sugar gliders who are afraid react by crabbing, lunging, and even biting. Building trust starts immediately for some, but may be more difficult and harder to establish with others. It is very important to understand the bonding process to ensure that you are actually building trust rather than making your glider more fearful of you.

We at Millermeade Farms do everything we can to facilitate the bonding process. First we handle our babies every day. Either one of my two employees or me takes each baby out of the nest box and handles it for a few minutes while feeding the other gliders. Some babies are crankier than others and we spend more time with those babies. We have noticed that a baby that is cranky for one person may not be cranky for one of the other caretakers. Even at a young age some gliders can act differently towards different people who handle them.

People often call or e-mail and ask if our babies are sweet, hand tamed, or bonded and of course I want to say, "Yes"! However, no matter how nice and gentle they are here, doesn't guarantee that they will be the perfect pets in their new home. They may grumble and even bite if they are scared. There are some gliders and new glider owners that make an instant connection and then there are others that have a harder time adjusting to each other. The bonding process can be very quick or it can be very time consuming and frustrating challenge. Unfortunately there is no way to predict if you and your new joey will bond quickly or if you will face bonding challenges. The recommendations in this guideline are designed to facilitate the bonding process. We have learned a lot about the bonding process over the years and my suggestions are based on our experiences as an owner and a breeder as well as someone who has helped many customers through their bonding process.

I recommend one to three hours of bonding time per day with your glider. This time should be spent with you, not while the glider is outside of its pouch playing. Some people are afraid that they don't have enough time to put into bonding. Several five-minute bonding/treat sessions throughout the day will also do wonders to improve your glider relationship. Much of the bonding time is just having the glider with you. This can be accomplished while you are doing other activities. The screened bonding pouches and the hand pouches we sell make it easy to spend the time with your glider that it needs. It is important to be properly equipped when performing any task and bonding with your glider is no exception.

Wait to let other people handle your glider until it is completely bonded to you if you want your glider to be bonded primarily to yourself. The entire family may take turns spending time with the glider if you want your glider to be social with others. This may make the bonding process more challenging, as the joey (baby glider) needs to become familiar and comfortable with more people. Do not be surprised if the glider prefers one person to another or if it doesn't like someone at all.

The first day your glider comes home it will probably be very scared because it has left behind its family and familiar surroundings. Even well socialized gliders may have difficulties adjusting to their new home. You are a total stranger and you will have to earn its trust. Some joeys react to their new environment by hanging on to the bars of the cage, by wanting to sleep all the time or it may be very vocal in expressing its opinion of its new home. A barking dog, a stalking cat, or screaming children can be very intimidating to your new glider. Try to make your new glider's home as calm, quiet and comfortable as possible.

The three step bonding process can start immediately. Spend as much time as possible working with your glider in the pouch and in its cage. You will need to decide if your glider is ready to be handled outside of the cage the first day. Your glider will need to feel comfortable in its new surroundings before it can begin you trust you and I suggest holding off on this part of the process for the first couple of days.

Pay close attention to the way your glider is responding to your bonding efforts. If your glider crabs at you but does not lunge at you or nip out of fear, then go ahead and continue that part of the bonding process. If your glider crabs, lunges, and bites, you are pushing your glider too far and you should take a couple steps back in the bonding process. Remember that the most important part bonding with your glider is to build trust. You are actually hindering the bonding process when you make your glider so afraid that it bites.

Some people that breed, sell, or own gliders recommend that you do not work with your gliders the first couple of days in their new home. I agree that the gliders do need to adjust to their new surroundings but I believe the process can start right away. Let me stress that you must pay attention to the language that that your glider "speaks". I encourage you to learn to distinguish the different types of noises your glider makes and follow the instructions in this handout in responding to those noises.

Sugar gliders need plenty of room to jump and play. The bigger the cage is, the better it is for the sugar glider. However, I recommend starting out with a cage that is approximately 18" x 18" square and 18" to 36" in height. One step in the glider bonding process is working with the glider in its cage. You will not be able to comfortably reach everywhere in the cage if your cage is too large. Your glider will run from top to bottom and from side to side to get away from you in a large cage. You won't be able to come into close contact with your glider in a very large cage and this could hinder bonding with your glider. You will be able to easily reach all parts of the cage in the size cage I have recommended. I suggest moving your glider into a larger cage once your glider has learned to come to you and you can easily get it out of its cage. In the long run it is well worth the extra money to have a small cage on hand. You can use it when you are cleaning the larger cage or when you travel. Also, you can decide what aspects of the cage you like and dislike before you invest more money in a larger cage when you start out with a small cage.

We send our glider babies home in a fleece pouch. We suggest using this pouch for the gliders to sleep in until the bonding process is well under way. Getting the glider out of the cage can be a terrifying ordeal for the glider if you have to chase it around its cage in order to catch it. It is easy to take the glider out of its cage while the glider is in its pouch. You will want to put the glider's pouch in a spot that is easily accessible from the door. Make sure the pouch clears the doorway so that it isn't jarred or bumped when you open and close the door if you choose to hang the pouch on the door.

Nest boxes, grass huts or other similar items are hard to remove the glider from without poking, prodding, or grabbing the glider. It is also not a good idea to let your glider sleep under a towel or other large piece of fabric. One customer let her glider sleep burrowed in a T-shirt but when she lifted the T-shirt to get the glider out of its cage it would jump and she would have to chase it to get it into the pouch. Once she started letting the glider sleep in the pouch she was able to get it out of the cage easier which made the bonding process flow much more smoothly. You glider will soil its pouch so it is a good idea to have several extra pouches on hand so that they can be washed and kept clean. We suggest using non-raveling materials such as fleece for your cage accessories. Check your pouches and other cage accessories made out of any type of material every day for loose threads. The threads in the seam may become loose even if your fabric doesn't ravel. Loose threads can wrap around any of the glider's body parts and can cut off circulation that can be painful not to mention life threatening.

Gliders bond by scent so it is a good idea to have material that smells like you in the glider's home. Our peek-a-boo travel/bonding pouches have scent squares included. You can wear the scent squares under your clothes and your glider will begin to associate your scent with comfort and safety. Another way to build trust with your glider is to share a T-shirt. Wear a T-shirt for several nights so that it is permeated with your scent. Hang the T-shirt on the side of the cage or place it on top of the cage. Again, your new glider gets to know your scent in a very non-threatening way.

• Never grab, chase, or restrain your sugar glider.
• Do not provoke your glider to bite you out of fear.
• Don't jerk your hand away from your glider if it crabs at you.
• Work with your glider during the daytime.
• Bribery works. Hand feed your glider nutritious treats.
• Don't give up.

Now that you know the rules, let me explain the rules before we go into the three step bonding process.

Never grab, chase, or restrain your glider.

Sugar gliders are still considered an exotic animal even though many gliders have been captive born for several generations. The average dog, cat, guinea pig, or domestic rabbit has very little fear of humans. Sugar gliders, on the other hand, still have many wild tendencies. Larger birds and other mammals prey upon sugar gliders in the wild. Keep in mind that sugar gliders are very tiny when compared to humans. Any predatory type movement such as grabbing or chasing instantly puts fear into the little glider. Hence, grabbing and chasing your glider are predatory type movements. In addition, avoid approaching your glider with movements from above and movements with a cupped hand toward the head. A good way to approach your glider is with a flattened hand. A surprise bite on the back of the hand or side of the finger doesn't hurt as bad as a bite on the tip of your finger. Some people like the palm up method and others prefer the palm down method. Either way, your fingers should be together. If the glider is on the side of the cage or on the floor or the cage, gently slide your hand toward the glider. This will give the glider the opportunity to step up onto your hand. This is a good method to use when your glider is on the move. Your glider will naturally step onto your hand. When your glider comes to you, praise it for its progress and offer it a treat.

One of the main points to remember is that sugar gliders do not like to feel restrained. Do not try to hold the glider still in your hand by squeezing it when it is trying to wiggle. They like to feel in control and they like to feel as if they are hiding. Cup a joey between your hands instead of trying to hold it in your fist. Joeys will often settle down for a nap cupped in your hand.

Unfortunately, there are times when it is necessary to grab or chase your glider. We must prevent the cat from eating the glider or from the glider harming itself in some manner, but expect some set back in the bonding process afterwards. I've had customers say, "We were doing great in the bonding process until it jumped on the floor and we had to chase it across the living room to catch it. Now it hates us." I've also heard, "I have to chase my glider around its cage to get it out and when I finally catch it, it bites me." Hopefully the three step bonding process will prevent this from happening.

Don't react negatively if your glider crabs at you.

Sugar gliders make a variety of sounds including the famous "crabbing" sound. The crabbing sound has many different variations and an experienced glider owner will be able to tell the difference between the types of crabbing. Not all crabbing is an indication of fear but sometimes it is only a sound of minor irritation. The "fear" crabbing sound is higher pitched, higher frequency and louder than the "just annoyed" crabbing sounds. If you can't distinguish the different sounds, you should treat all crabbing as a signal to you that your glider does not like what you are doing.

Fear of the unknown

The crabbiest gliders will grumble when they hear your voice. If this is the case simply get the glider used to the sound of your voice. An easy way to do this is to wear your glider in a bonding pouch. It won't take long for your glider to get tired of crabbing every time it hears you talk or make noise. Our zippered, screened pouches allow you to comfortably and conveniently wear your glider in a safe environment. The glider can get used to your scent, voice, and movement all in the comfort of a fleece pouch.

Some gliders will crab when you pick up their pouch or disturb them while they are sleeping. The easiest way to get your glider used to you moving the pouch is to pick up the pouch numerous times throughout the day. Talk to your glider and gently massage the glider from the outside of the pouch. You may only need to repeat this process a few times or you may need to repeat this process 100 times throughout the first couple of days of owning your glider. It is certainly easier to work with a young glider but you can start the bonding process with older gliders the same way.

Fear of the big giant - you

Keep in mind that you are the size of a giant when you compare yourself to your new pet. I know I would be scared of something 1,000 times larger than me! You will win your glider's heart over quicker and easier by building trust than by inducing fear into your glider. Many gliders will crab when you approach them with your hand. As soon as you hear the crabbing sound you should stop what you are doing but don't jerk your hand or withdraw your hand away from the glider. Many gliders will become curious about your hand and they will approach your hand on their own. A great way to teach your glider that you aren't going to hurt them is to have a treat in your hand when you move toward them. Please refer to the "Bribery Works" section later on in this guide for more information about bribery techniques.

Do not provoke your glider to bite you out of fear.

One of the most important tips I can give you is to avoid giving your sugar glider a reason to lunge at you or bite out of fear. You should not scare your glider to the point that it feels threatened enough to bite you. There are times you might think you glider is "biting" but it is really just trying to communicate with you. Please refer to the biting section of this guide for more information on this topic. The bonding process will take a lot longer and be much more difficult if you provoke fear instead of trust in your glider. Keep this thought in mind while working with your glider in the pouch and in the cage.

The best way to avoid this is by never grabbing or chasing your glider. A sugar glider's main line of defense is to make noise and to bite. They will bite to get you to stop what you are doing. Your joey will become more scared and the problem will only escalate if you scream, jerk your hand back, or scold your glider. It will learn that you will take your hand away and so it will continue to crab, lunge, and bite. You will only be reinforcing negative behavior. Also, if you jerk your hand back it may view your quick movement as a predatory type movement. You should always move slowly toward your glider in a non-threatening manner. If it does lunge, crab, or bite simply hold your hand still until the glider calms down. If you demonstrate fear, the glider will sense your fear and in return become more afraid and more agitated. It is important to note what you are doing that is causing your sugar glider to bite.

Work with your glider during the daytime.

Sugar gliders are nocturnal so they typically sleep during the day and are more active during the night. For this reason, bonding time works best during the day and playtime is best at night. As you will soon find out, the first step in bonding is working with your glider in the pouch. Your glider will want to be in the pouch sleeping during the day so it will be more docile and more apt to fall asleep in your hand. It will learn to associate your scent with comfort by sleeping in your hand. You can make a lot of progress in glider bonding even while your glider sleeps. If your glider is kept awake during the day it will make up its extra sleep time during the night.

Bribery Works. Hand feed your glider nutritious treats.

Some gliders are naturally protective of their cage and pouch. The objective of bribery is to allow you to enter the glider's space without seeming like an intruder. It will learn to associate your hands and voice with good things building trust between you and your glider.

Our sugar glider diet is 2/3 to 3/4 dry food and the remainder of the diet is nutritious treats. Only feed the nutritious treats by hand. In other words, don't leave the treats in the food bowl to enjoy later. You want your glider to associate something good with you. You should hand feed your glider the nutritious treats every morning and evening. You can begin this process while the glider is still in its pouch or even if it is moving about in its cage. Talk to it in a soft soothing voice while you are giving your glider treats. Slowly approach your glider with a piece of fruit, vegetable, cricket, or mealworm if your glider is out of the pouch. When your glider crabs that is o.k. Just stop your movement and wait for it to finish crabbing but do not pull away. If your glider lunges at you to bite, it will get a bite of something tasty instead. It will soon learn that your slow, calm, approach is nothing to fear. If your glider is in its pouch, gently open the pouch and slowly move the treat toward your glider. Once your glider accepts treats readily from your fingers, place the treat on the palm of your hand so that the glider has to sit on your palm to enjoy its treat. While your glider is enjoying its treat from one hand, you can begin to pet your joey with the other hand. The whole time you should talk to your glider softly and sweetly.

It is also a good idea to make a particular sound when you are giving a treat. After awhile, the critter will learn that when it hears a particular sound it is going to get a treat. Should your pet escape from you later, you can make this sound and it should come back to you expecting a treat. This little trick works with everything from cows and pigs to mice and birds. It is important to be consistent with your sounds and treats but animals are very accepting of this sort form of positive reinforcement.

After your glider learns to accept solid treats from you, you can begin using what are considered "lickey" treats. These are nutritious things that the glider can lick off your finger or better yet a small spoon. Baby food (fruit flavors or chicken with apples is said to be a glider favorite), blended fruit, or yogurts are good choices for lickey treats. I prefer not to use honey as a treat because it is not as nutritious as some of the other alternatives. Offering your glider "lickey" treats may teach your glider to be a licker or a treat biter. If you do not like to be licked you may not want to use lickey treats. It is fairly common for gliders to nip fingers if they associate fingers with treats. There is a commercial jingle that asks "How many licks does it take to get to the end of a Tootsie Roll Pop"? Just like little kids and a sucker, critters often lick, lick, lick then CRUNCH. It isn't usually out of meanness but instead just plain temptation.

Sugar gliders can be "clicker" trained like many other animals. The basic technique is to make a certain sound every time you give your glider a treat. Pretty soon your glider will learn to associate the sound with the treat. Some people use dried fruit treats for training and they will shake the can before they take out the pretty. The type of sound doesn't matter as long as you are consistent using the sound with the treat. It usually isn't long before the gliders learn that when they hear that sound they will get a treat and they will come out to get their treat. One benefit to teaching your glider to come to you for treats is if your glider escapes or gets away from you it will come back to you when it knows it will get a reward. This is especially helpful if your glider gets out of its cage during the night and finds a cozy place to sleep during the day.

Don't give up

Every sugar glider and every owner have individual character traits and personalities. Some gliders will bond to their new owners very quickly and other gliders may take months to totally learn to love and accept their new owner. Please don't give up on the bonding process. It is well worth the time and effort you invest.

• Work with your glider in the pouch
• Work with your glider in it's cage
• Work with your glider outside it's cage

Work with your glider in the pouch

The best bonding time spent with your glider is skin to glider contact. You will want to begin spending time with your glider by holding your joey in your hand in its pouch. While your glider is sleeping (or awake but calm) in its pouch, take one hand and cup the glider in your hand from the outside of the pouch. Gently open the pouch and slide your other hand in around your glider. This gentle transfer of the joey from one hand to another is more similar to a hug than to a grab or a tug. It is very tempting to open the pouch to look at the glider before you put your hand in the pouch. If you have opened the pouch enough to see the glider you will most likely have alerted the glider that your hand will be intruding into its home. If the glider is facing you, your hand will be directed at the glider's face, which is very intimidating and frightening for the glider. The "hug" approach is more comforting and less alarming for a glider that is just getting used to your scent and movements.

Remember that sugar gliders are very sensitive to different smells. Be aware of detergents, scented soaps, perfumes, nail polish, foods, and other animal smells. A change in your smell may cause your glider not to recognize you. You can rub your hands over the outside of the pouch so that the glider's own scent will already be mingled with your scent. It is always a good idea to wash your hands before and after handling your glider.

Bonding pouches are pouches that you wear. It is a good idea to carry your glider in a bonding pouch every day for several hours. This indirect contact is a good way for the joey to learn your scent and to get to know your voice. Some people prefer placing the glider's pouch beneath their shirt. Others prefer wearing a purse type pouch outside their clothes. You can add scent squares (discussed in the "Setting up your cage" section) to the bonding pouch to further promote scent recognition.

Another way to carry your glider is to tuck your glider between two shirts. If you tuck in your two shirts the shirts will form a pocket. You can put the glider pouch and all between your shirts. If your glider comes out of the pouch it can explore your body between your shirts while remaining in a dark warm environment. Some glider owners are brave enough to allow their gliders to snuggle right next to their skin. The closer the glider lies to your skin, the more it smells your scent. While the skin to glider contact is preferred, little glider nails can be quite a deterrent.

Some people allow their gliders to sleep in a pocket. This is perfectly fine as long as the pocket is secured and there is no risk of injuring the glider by sitting on it or putting too much pressure on the pocket. A strange noise may frighten your glider and cause it to panic and run instead of remaining in your pocket, so make sure your pocket or pouch is secure.

Most gliders will sleep in their pouches all day long but do not take your glider out of your house until you know its habits and that it will not move around during the day. Some people are able to wear their bonding pouches to work or to school. And, until your glider is completely bonded with you, avoid the temptation of showing it off to your friends.

Work with your glider in its cage

The next step in working with your glider is to work with you glider in its cage. This part of the bonding process can be done in conjunction with working with your glider in its pouch. The purpose of working with your glider in its cage is to work with it in its own environment where it is most comfortable. You should work with your glider both during the day and during the evening or nighttime. You will want to practice handling your glider during the day when your glider is sleepy and slower moving. Wait to practice handling your glider until it is comfortable with having your hand in its pouch. When you begin to handle your glider it may jump from your hands and if it is confined in its cage you will not have to grab or chase your glider. It will take some time to learn your glider's mannerisms and movements.

You should spend as much time as possible with your glider during its active playtime in the evening or night. Don't feel like you need to wait until the glider wakes up on its own before you can start to play with him. It is o.k. to wake it up in the evening. It won't take long for it to wake up and start moving around if you can wake your glider up gently by taking it up out of its pouch.

It may be best to wait until the glider comes out of the pouch on its own if you have an older glider or a glider that is very afraid of you. If taking it out of its pouch scares it then you want to allow it to come out of its pouch when it is ready. Most gliders will come out when the room is dark. It is a good idea to darken the room in the evening then wait an hour or so until the glider comes out, then you can go back into the room to spend some time with the glider.

Most birdcages have small doors for feed cups that slide up and down. If your arm will fit through these small doors, these doors work best because there is little room for the glider to squeeze around your arms to escape. Be very careful when opening the large doors since the glider may accidentally escape.

If your glider should happen to escape, do not panic. Get its pouch and offer it to your glider or lay it down in front of it. Many times the glider will retreat into its pouch for safety. You should use slow, deliberate movements. Don't make loud noises or speak harshly. Also offer treats in order to coax it onto your hand or back to its cage.

Work with your glider outside its cage

Some gliders will be content to stay on you and sit still in your hand. Other gliders will want to explore as much as possible or just plain get away from you. Keep other pets secured in another room. Be sure to close doors, windows, vents, and anything that the joey may use as an escape route.

There are a couple of reasons why your sugar glider may not want to sit still in your hand. First of all, if your sugar glider doesn't trust you it will try and get away from you because it thinks you are trying to hurt it. Should your glider escape you will have to catch your glider and this will only hurt the glider bonding process. Sugar gliders also hate to be restrained in your hand or to be held too firmly. When your glider is trying to get away from you allow it to walk from one hand onto the other. You may have to form a little tunnel with your hand to keep your glider more restrained. If your glider gets too active just put it back in its pouch or cage and try again later.

I suggest practicing handling your glider in a small area. Some people have a bathtub with glass shower doors and they sit in there. It is a small area so the sugar glider doesn't have much room to explore and there isn't a way for the glider to escape. Other people buy small, cheap, pop up tents at a Wal-mart or Kmart. Again, the main goal is to get to know your glider without it trying to escape. You don't want to have to grab or chase your glider because those actions are very scary for such a little critter.

Leash training

We offer "training leash" to our sugar glider customers. There is an adjustable loop at one end of the leash. The plastic closure allows the loop to be loosened or tightened as needed. Start with the loop about twice as big as what it would need to be to fit easily over the glider's head. The easiest way to put on the training leash is to start with the sugar glider in its pouch. Gently roll back the pouch so only the glider's head is sticking out of the pouch. Slowly slip the loop around the glider's neck. Use the plastic closure to adjust the loop so it fits snuggly around the glider's neck. You don't want the head loop so tight that it causes the glider pain or makes the glider too uncomfortable, but you don't want the loop so loose that the plastic closure slides under the glider's chin.

I suggest using the training leash every time you work with your glider out of the pouch and out of the cage (unless you are working with it in a small area described previously). You will want to start leash training as soon as you start working with your glider outside of its cage. If your sugar glider gets a good taste of "freedom" it will want to run and jump and it will do its best to escape. The leash is a tool used to train your glider to stay close to your body. It is not meant to provide safety for your glider. You must make sure your glider is safe at all times. I do not recommend that you leave the leash on while the glider is in its pouch. The glider could easily get tangled up in the leash and choke.

Once your glider is comfortable with the training leash I suggest using the figure eight style harness leash. It is much safer for your glider. There is less risk of choking your glider or of the leash slipping off.

It is very important to start leash training early. Many older gliders HATE leashes. If the leash causes too much stress for your glider it may do more harm than good.

Warning: Never leave your glider unattended while on any type of leash.

Sugar gliders "bite" for several reasons. First, you need to determine why your sugar glider is biting you. You may need to change your behavior to prevent biting, you may need to teach your glider that it is inappropriate to bite, or you may need to learn more about normal glider behavior.

Some gliders bite to get their way even though they know you mean them no harm. However, if you react by pulling your hand back they will learn to use this behavior to dominate you. Gliders may bite because they do not like a certain smell or a fragrance smells so good they may want to taste it. Some smells that may trigger biting reactions include: other pets, soap, shampoo, laundry detergent, after shave, perfume or cologne, lotions, or nail care products.

There are several things you can do to discourage inappropriate biting. When your glider bites you, make a "Psssst" sound. It is a sound that parent gliders make when correcting and training their glider babies. Most gliders will stop and listen to the sound, distracting it from its bad behavior. Some people blow into their glider's face to get it to stop biting. Gliders don't like the air being blown on them so some gliders will stop but other gliders will get angry. Some people place their glider back in its cage when it bites. This will work only if your sugar glider enjoys being outside of the cage. If the glider would rather be in its cage you are only reinforcing negative behavior.

Even though bites are alarming, a baby's bite is much less painful than an older glider's bite. So, just grit your teeth and bear the minor physical pain because it will be worth it in the long run. When working with older gliders you are bound to get bitten a time or two. However, most older gliders will tame down with time, persistence, and patience.

Biting because of fear

The most obvious type of bite is the bite that is accompanied by crabbing and other loud noise making. It is typically the most difficult types of bites to deal with and discourage. Several of the previous sections describe methods to prevent biting out of fear but since this is one of the most common problems with grouchy gliders it does warrant more attention.

The first type of bites is because your sugar glider does not trust you. If it is crabbing and lunging or darting at you and biting as you approach it, it is most likely biting because it is scared of you. If it is biting when you put your hand in its pouch and crabbing, it is probably biting because it doesn't want you in its territory. When you put your hand in the cage and your sugar glider attacks you then it is most likely absolutely terrified of you. Since these types of bites occur because your sugar glider doesn't trust you, in order to get them to stop you must gain your glider's trust.

There is no way to know how long it will take to earn the sugar glider's trust. Your sugar glider may not trust you for several reasons. You may be able to figure out why it doesn't trust you and then again you may not. If you are nervous handling your glider, the glider is going to pick up on that and be scared or nervous too. You sugar glider will definitely be scared of you if it got away from you and you had to chase it or grab it. He may not like you just because you aren't his "mommy" and he didn't adjust well to the new environment.

Please be patient and take baby steps in earning your glider's trust. I suggest keeping a journal of your progress. Record the time you spend with your glider, what you do, and the results. It may take a LONG time to earn your glider's trust but it will be well worth the effort in the end.

One place to start is to work with your glider in its pouch. Does it crab when you take the pouch out of the cage or move the pouch? If so, the first step is just getting it used to the pouch. Begin by talking to the glider before you even open the cage door. Tell it you are coming, open the door and take the pouch out of the cage. Rub your hand all over the outside of the pouch. Keep repeating this process as many times as it takes to get it used to being taken out of the cage.

Next, does your glider crab when you rub your hands all over it from the outside of the pouch? If so, you will need to get it used to you handling it from the outside of the pouch. For this step, you can put the small cage pouch inside a transport pouch or you can put the glider directly into the transport pouch. Have the glider with you as much as possible throughout the day. Every few minutes rub the glider through the pouch. Eventually the glider will learn that you touching it through the pouch isn't harmful and the stoking and rubbing may actually feel good.

Does your sugar glider crab and or bite when you put your hand into its pouch? If so, how are you putting your hand in the pouch? Remember that sugar gliders do not like to be approached from the face. While your glider is sleeping (or awake but calm) in its pouch, take one hand and cup the glider in your hand from the outside of the pouch. Gently open the pouch and slide your other hand in around your glider. This gentle transfer of the joey from one hand to another is more similar to a hug than to a grab or a tug. It is very tempting to open the pouch to look at the glider before you put your hand in the pouch. If you have opened the pouch enough to see the glider you will most likely have alerted the glider that your hand will be intruding into its home. If the glider is facing you, your hand will be directed at the glider's face, which is very intimidating and frightening for the glider. The "hug" approach is more comforting and less alarming for a glider that is just getting used to your scent and movements.

If your sugar glider absolutely hates your hand in its pouch, you may have to skip this step in the bonding process. It will only make your sugar glider fear you more if you force your hand into your sugar glider's territory. Instead of putting your hand directly in the pouch begin bribing your glider with treats while it is in its pouch. Gently roll back the top of the pouch so that its head is exposed but the rest of the glider is still in the pouch. Make sure you hold onto your glider firmly in one hand while offering treats in the other hand. You may also try to encourage your glider to come out of its pouch for treats. This will be accomplished more easily if your sugar glider trusts you.

When you are working with your glider in its cage and it bites you, try and figure out when it is most likely to bite. If your glider approaches you in the attack mode, don't even try to work with your glider with your hand in the cage. Wake your glider up by encouraging it to come out of its pouch. Roll back the top of the pouch and expel it into its cage. Then, talk to your glider and feed it treats through the wires of the cage. Once your glider learns to trust you through the confines of its cage you can begin to work with it while your hand is in its cage.

If your sugar glider bites you only when you approach it, make sure you are approaching your glider properly. Remember to approach your sugar glider with a flat hand. When the crabbing starts you should stop all movement but do not pull your hand away. Continue talking to your glider. If you are offering your glider a treat while the glider is in its cage, hold the treat so that if the glider tries to bite your finger, it will bite the treat instead. Grapes are good treats to use when trying to stop this type of behavior.

Also, remember to never grab or chase your sugar glider. If you want to get it out of its cage either let the sugar glider come to you or encourage it to go into its pouch. Then take the pouch out of its cage.

Biting after hand feeding

If your glider is biting you after you hand feed it a treat it is probably letting you know it wants more treats or it tastes you to see if you are part of the treat. This type of biting is normally not biting out of aggression and is not accompanied by crabbing. This type of bite may be gentle,
but if the sugar glider is frustrated because the treats are all gone, it may be more forceful.

You can discourage this type of biting several ways. First, you can make a loud Psssst sound and say NO. This is similar to how glider parents would train their babies. Something else to do when your glider latches on to your finger is to push your finger towards your glider. This action will tilt the glider's head backward and cause the glider to release its bite. This will not hurt your glider but will make it uncomfortable and let it know that biting is not acceptable behavior.

Random biting or gnawing

This type of biting may come out of the blue. It is not accompanied by crabbing and may be seemingly spontaneous. I'm sure it is possible that a glider is biting randomly just to be a pain or to show off its personality. You should pay close attention to when your glider bites for no reason. It could be demonstrating a sign of jealousy, being tired or hungry, annoyed, or it could be trying to get your attention. This type of behavior is the most difficult to curb. Again, you can make a loud Psssst sound and say NO and immediately put your glider back into its cage. Putting the glider back into its cage will only be a punishment if the glider enjoys being out of the cage. You can also distract your glider with a treat, that is especially helpful if they are trying to tell you they are hungry. When using any type of discipline you must be certain that your glider has bonded to you and that you are not scaring your glider.

Grooming

This type of "biting" is normally a nibble on your arm or around your hairline. Gliders groom each other as a sign of affection. If your glider is grooming you, it has accepted you as one of its own and is trying to take care of you. Unless this is extremely painful for you I suggest that you "grin and bear it". Consider the little nibbles to be glider kisses.

Some women like to bra training their sugar gliders. The idea is to have the sugar glider next to you at all times and to travel with your glider inconspicuously. Of course you must have the right "equipment" to carry your glider with you in your bra. It is a good idea to keep your gliders nails well trimmed when carrying your glider against your body.

Some owners and gliders prefer skin to glider contact, but it isn't absolutely necessary to form a close bond with your glider. Hand-in-pouch bonding time and the use of scent squares will also help encourage your glider to be comfortable with your scent.

We suggest keeping a journal of your glider's bonding process. Keep track of your glider's favorite nutritious treats, time spent, and your progress. Sometimes by looking at the hours spent with your glider you may realize that you are not spending enough time bonding with your glider. Or, you may be surprised at how quickly you were able to move through the steps in the bonding process. Try and keep track of your routine. When you find something that works for the glider, be consistent! Don't miss a time of hand feeding – your glider will remember!

A good indication that a glider has completely bonded to you is if it returns to you when it is scared or frightened. However, not all gliders will return to their owners even if they are bonded. Sometimes the gliders would rather play and explore than remain on you.

Below is a story of Capri and her glider Mia. I met Capri through one of her postings on sugarglider@egroups.com back in August of 2000. She has given me permission to share her story. I hope you find it helpful and encouraging.

Mia is a sugar glider who will be four in May. I got her from a pet store as soon as she was weaned from her mother. I carry her in a pouch all day long. She lets me know when she's ready to go back in the cage in the evening by getting restless in the pouch.

My relationship with Mia didn't start out this way. She was a sweetheart in the shop but once I brought her home, it was a new environment for her and suddenly she went from being this cuddly baby who wanted to just hang on my shirt, to this fluffed out, fur standing on end, teeth baring, swearing little monster that attacked my hand every time I tried to get it into the nest box.

Solution?

I replaced the nest box with a hanging cloth pouch that could be done up. Then when Mia climbed into settle in for the day, I closed the pouch, so if she growled, tough darts, she was going with me like it or not. Then once I was sure she was secured and wouldn't be able to bite me I took the pouch out of the cage, and wore it around my neck, with Mia in it. For several weeks, she crabbed whenever I did this but eventually she stopped and came to welcome my taking her out for the day. All day, everyday I wore her pouch. Once you get them used to being with you and in the pouch, you can get them used to being handled. During the day, I frequently rubbed the outside of the pouch. Once Mia stopped crabbing at every noise or shadow, and started feeling more at home in her pouch I went from just rubbing her from the outside of the pouch to stroking her inside the pouch. Very soon she learned to associate the pouch and my hand with something good instead of something threatening. Mia actually loved contact even before she was really sure of me. Once I started petting her in the pouch, she just loved it, although sometimes at first she used to crab and lunge initially. She settled down once I got in there and gave her the attention – this wasn't so scary and bad after all. Well, I learned that her experimental nips, the ones she wasn't doing out of defense, turned to licks when I withdrew my hand very slowly from giving her the attention. She would reach out with her paws, and her mouth, grab my hand back, or try to, and her nips turned to kisses. I stayed and gave her more attention then, but every time she went to nibble, she would get threatened with an end to the contact. Licking is something to be encouraged.

It took us a good 6 months just to get used to each other's ways and quirks, and after that Mia and I only bonded more and more all the time. At first I hung the pouch in the cage at night. No nest box in her cage just a pouch. I'd say it was about a year before I had her trained so that I didn't need to keep the pouch in the cage at night during the warmer parts of the year. Then in the morning, I'd put on the pouch, put my hand in the cage, and she would climb up my arm and into the pouch around my neck.

She certainly was not at all like bringing home a puppy, kitten or even a rabbit. She's a real love-bug now, but if you could've seen her back when I first got her, you'd not believe it was the same glider. And that defensiveness does not go away over night. It's part of the wild that's still in them even though they were born in captivity and in Mia's case, born to captive bred parents. And she is up for a cuddle and TLC any time, day or night. If you want a really cuddly, lovey glider, give them lots of consistently gently contact during the day and don't be timid about it. Also, don't try to rush them before they are ready. They'll let you know when they're used to one thing and ready to move on to the next step of the bonding process.

There are several things we can learn from Capri's experience. First, Mia had a hard time transitioning to her new environment. Since I have only had correspondence with Capri online, I don't know how comfortable she was handling her new glider. As I mentioned before, a new owner's personality and experience handling animals plays an important part in how the sugar glider adjusts to it's new home.

Secondly, Capri worked on Mia's terms. Mia's cloth pouch was her comfort zone and so Capri used the pouch as a bonding tool. Capri handled Mia during the day time hours when she was less active and she moved from stroking and handling Mia outside the pouch to having her hand in the pouch.

Finally, persistence paid off and Mia is now the sweet glider that Capri was looking for in a pet.

Reminder

Each sugar glider and each sugar glider owner has his or her own personality. Sometimes sugar gliders will act differently with different people. If you are having difficulty taming your sugar glider, please do not give up. In almost all cases patience and persistence will win out unless you have an older glider that is extremely set in its ways. Even then, I believe most gliders can be won over to at least a semi-friendly state. I do not suggest selling or giving away your first glider in order to get a "tamer" second glider. Also, I don't think it is a good idea to get your first glider a "friend" before it is completely bonded to you. If you are having trouble with your first glider and you haven't learned glider handling and communication skills you may have the same problems with your second glider.

Good luck to you and happy bonding!

Gail