In the wild

• Hedgehogs are insectivores and like many other insectivores they can eat one third to one hundred percent of their body weight in insects and food every night.
• Hedgehogs eat the whole insect including the hard exoskeleton.
• Wild hedgehogs seem to have a preference for soft-bodied insects such as centipedes and millipedes when available. (Graffam)
• They are also opportunistic omnivores and may feed on small vertebrates they can catch or carrion they encounter. Birds' eggs are said to be a hedgehog favorite.
• Hedgehogs do not have a cecum, which is the lower end of the colon in other animals. Herbivores have a relatively large cecum, hosting a number of bacteria, which aid in enzymatic breakdown of plant matter such as cellulose whereas carnivores have only a small portion of a cecum called vermiform appendix. Hedgehogs have been known to eat some seeds, soft fruit, and vegetation. Their body is not designed to digest plant matter; it is probable that they eat these foods because there is a shortage of their preferred diet.
• Traditionally, hedgehogs are a welcome friend in gardens and will never become agricultural pests.

What We Know

• A majority of the hedgehog diet information available today originates from research by Dr. Graffam-Carlsen of the Bronx Zoo. She presented her research at Go Hog Wild 1998, a convention of hedgehog enthusiasts.
• Like humans and other animals, hedgehogs need a blend of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, fiber, vitamins, minerals, and water.
• Animals and insects that hedgehogs consume in the wild are eaten whole. The intestines, bones, fur etc. provide calcium, minerals, tooth abrasion and adequate vitamins.
• We believe the protein content should be greater than 20% for the average healthy hedgehog. Most breeders use 28-35% protein sources for nursing moms and growing babies.
• The fat content should be between 5 and 15% for the average hedgehog. A higher fat content is beneficial to nursing moms and growing babies but a maintenance food should be on the lower side of fat content.
• Dr. Graffam indicates there is up to 15% fiber in an insectivore's diet and that most foods do not typically contain this much fiber. Like humans, hedgehogs may benefit from added fiber in the diet.
• When taking into consideration the fiber content of foods, more fiber is normally needed for foods with higher moisture content. In Graffam's study the animals fed canned cat food benefited from additional fiber. Animals fed a dry diet would typically not require as much fiber in the diet.

What We Don't Know

• Diet is one of the hottest and most widely debated topics of hedgehog owners. Some individuals have much stronger opinions than others and of course most people think they are right and THEIR WAY is the ONLY RIGHT way to provide adequate or proper nutrition.
• I firmly believe there isn't a perfect food that will meet every animal's exact needs simply because no one truly knows exactly what hedgehogs need. Like humans, hedgehogs have different body types, metabolisms, levels of activity and stressors.
• To my knowledge, few advances have been made since Dr. Graffam's pioneering research. A scientific study on hedgehog diet would be on a large number of animals, over an extended period of time, and under controlled conditions with complicated analysis following the study. Unfortunately hedgehogs are not popular enough in the pet industry to warrant the limited research funding available in the pet industry.

Variety in Diet

• Hedgehog breeders, enthusiasts, and other experts within the hedgehog community recommend and use a wide variety of foods.
• A varied diet is probably the safest way to meet a hedgehog's unique and somewhat mysterious nutritional requirements.
• Variety in diet can be achieved through a blend of dry foods or by using one staple food and providing a variety of nutritious treats to supplement the main diet.
• Providing a variety of foods will help to prevent your hedgehog from becoming attached to only one food. You could have a serious problem with your hedgehog not eating if an animal is attached to one food and that food becomes unavailable or you run out.

Food Ingredient Quality

• The quality and preparation of animal foods is as different as human foods. Foods can range in quality from highly processed to Certified Organic.
• There is no doubt that organic and human grade foods are good but it certainly isn't what the animals would eat in the wild. Keep in mind that in the wild hedgehogs eat carrion (whole dead animals including meat, fur, skin, and bones), whole insects and a fair amount of soil and debris along with their food.
• I am certainly not advocating feeding your pet road kill, but wild animals gain valuable vitamins and nutrients through what we leave out of their food. The vitamins and nutrient that we put back into foods are our best guess at what animals would obtain naturally through their environment.

What a Food Should Contain

• When looking for a food for your hedgehog you will want to carefully read the ingredient list.
• Look at the ingredients carefully when choosing a food for your hedgehog. Foods SHOULD contain:

• High quality protein sources

• Meat protein sources should be in the top two ingredients in the ingredient list.
• Chicken, chicken meal, and lamb are the best protein sources for insectivores because they are the most easily digested.
• Pork and beef are cheaper sources of protein but not as easily digested.
• Foods that contain several protein sources tend to be more beneficial because they provide a wider variety of amino acids that are the building blocks of all cells.

• Appropriate protein and fat ratio.

• Different protein and fat levels are required during different times of the hedgehog's growth and development.
• Nursing moms and growing babies need more protein (30-35%) than hedgehogs at a maintenance level.
• A higher fat content is beneficial for animals that require more calories but too much fat can lead to obesity and its associated health problems.
• Many foods are available in regular and light forms.
• Lite forms of cat foods are traditionally used at the maintenance level.

• Appropriate kibble size and hardness

• Hedgehogs have a small mouth compared to cats and dogs. They do not use their feet to pick up their food and nibble it as would rodents and some other small animals.
• One must be willing to crush a larger sized kibble. I have seen malnourished hedgehogs on a good food simply because the kibble was too large for the hedgehog to eat.
• Some crunch in food helps to clean hedgehog's teeth similar to what the exoskeletons of insects would in the wild. Tooth decay can result from a diet of only soft foods.
• Very hard foods can wear down or damage teeth and may be impossible for hedgehogs to eat that have missing or broken teeth.
• A consistent diet of soft foods can also lead to tooth and gum diseases.

What a Food Should NOT Contain

• Things to AVOID in foods:
  • Sunflower seeds, peanuts, or other seeds and nuts are best left for rodents and birds. Hedgehogs do not have a beak, specialized tongue or the use of their front paws to help them crack and eat the meat of sunflower seed. Seeds and nuts are serious choking hazards. Numerous hedgehogs have been reported to have peanuts stuck in the roof of their mouth. Read hedgehog food labels carefully. A couple brands contain seeds and nuts in their food and treats.
  • Raisins and other dried fruits and vegetables sound good in theory but are actually more harmful than good. Raisins and dried fruit tend to stick to hedgehogs' tiny teeth and the roof of their mouth and are likely to cause tooth decay. Dried vegetables are hard for the hedgehog to chew as well as hard for the hedgehog to digest. Read hedgehog food labels carefully. A couple brandscontain dried fruits and vegetables in their food and treats.
  • Meat by products, fats or other food components that are listed generically such as: meat and bone meal, poultry by products, animal proteins or animal fats. The best sources of protein are those that specifically list the type of meat and fat: chicken, chicken meal, etc.

Corn Controversy

• Corn has recently become a highly controversial food component in dog, cat, hedgehog, and other pet diet.
• Some believe corn has little or no nutritional value and is merely a filler in food and therefore should not be part of carnivore or insectivore diets.
• However, corn is one of the staple diet components for meat producing animals including cattle, hogs, poultry, sheep and goats. It does provide a source of protein, fat, and nutrition for these animals and is blended in to other animal feeds as well.
• Corn has also been a staple grain in human diets and its use are documented throughout history.
• The type and quality of corn, portion of the corn used, and how the corn is processed are all components that determine the actual nutritional value of the end product.
• Fresh corn on the cob from a Farmer's Market, canned corn, frozen corn, popcorn, microwave popcorn, corn syrup, corn oil, and corn meal are all examples of different types of corn in our diet. It is obvious that sweet corn is going to have a completely different chemical make-up than corn meal and corn syrup.
• Most hedgehog owners will agree that corn should not be the only source of protein in a hedgehog's diet or the main ingredient in a food.
• Excluding all foods that contain "corn" in a hedgehog's diet or categorizing foods that contain corn as "bad" cannot be nutritionally justified.

Hedgehog Foods

• Several different brands of hedgehog foods are available on the Internet and in pet stores. Some hedgehog foods are very good, some are only adequate as a treat and not a complete diet, and other foods are simply not good for your pet.
• Just because a food is labeled for a particular animal does not mean it is a quality food. No manufacturer is going to put on their label that their food is junk!! Each product is going to say it is good for your pet whether it truly is or not.
• Inadequate hedgehog foods have given ALL hedgehog foods a bad name. I will not publicly slander individual brands of food so it is up to you to read the labels and make educated food decisions for yourself.
• More information is available in our Food Comparison Charts and our Diet Recommendations Guide.

Cat Foods

• Just about any information that you read will have slightly various recommendations and use preferences of cat foods.
• I recognize the fact that high quality foods are good for your pet.
• However, very few of the hedgehogs in the pet market today or in the past were raised or are currently being raised on high quality cat foods alone. Breeders with more than a few animals simply cannot produce a hedgehog at a price their customers can afford using only top quality brands of cat food.
• I am certainly not advocating feeding hedgehogs junk, but I do think we underestimate the value of some foods. After all, cats are not insectivores they are carnivores and there are differences in their nutritional requirements.
• More information is available in our Food Comparison Charts and our Diet Recommendations Guide.

Dog Foods

• Preparing for this paper I found conflicting opinions on the Internet as to whether or not dog food was acceptable.
• The biggest disadvantage of using a dog food as a hedgehog food is that the kibble size tends to be WAY to big even using the small bite varieties.
• Some high quality dog foods have similar ingredients and content to the above mentioned cat foods and if they are crushed it appears they could be a suitable part of the hedgehog's diet.
• The main difference between cat and dog foods is the absence of Taurine in dog foods. Taurine is necessary for cats but not dogs and it is still unknown whether it affects hedgehogs' overall health.

Canned or Soft Foods

• Canned cat or dog foods are generally palatable especially when thinned and slightly warmed.
• Canned or soft foods can be used as treats. Whiskas cat treats in the foil packs are popular treats with many hedgehogs.
• Soft foods or canned foods are good for hedgehogs with broken or missing teeth, or other health issues.
• Soft foods should not be fed as a sole diet because they do not provide tooth abrasion accomplished with chewing harder foods.
• Moist foods should not be left in the cage longer than 4 hours due to bacterial growth. (Graffam).

The Most Important Nutrient

• Water is one of the essential nutrients for humans and animals alike. Animals of all types can survive much longer without food than without water.
• Fresh water should be available to your hedgehog at all times.
• It is a good idea to check water flow in water bottles daily because the bottle can become plugged with bedding or the ball can get stuck in an odd position.
• Stale water can grow harmful bacteria so it is a good idea to change water on a regular basis.
• Some hedgehogs will refuse to drink or drink little if they don't like the taste of the water. We suggest using filtered or bottled water if you suspect your hedgehog is drinking less than two ounces of water per day.
• Hedgehogs that don't drink enough water are susceptible to kidney problems that could lead to an early death.
• Watch your hedgehog for excessive chewing or jerking on the metal part of the water bottle. This behavior can lead to tooth problems and so you will need to switch to a water bowl.
• Water bowls can spill easily and if you don't clean the bedding frequently you could develop a problem with mold or mildew in your cage.

Monitoring Food Intake

• Hedgehogs need fresh food and water every day. It is very important for you to make sure your hedgehog is eating and drinking enough every day.
• Sudden changes in eating and drinking habits are often the first indicator of a more serious problem.
• Your hedgehog should reach its adult size by six month of age. We suggest weighing your hedgehog on a regular basis to make sure that it is not gaining or losing a significant amount of weight.
• You may need to slightly decrease the amount of food that you give your hedgehog once it has reached its adult weight to prevent obesity.
• Diet related health problems as a result from over feeding are a serious concern for many pet hedgies.
• How much food and how often to feed are discussed in our Diet Recommendations article.

Obesity and Diet Choices

• According to Dr. Graffam, hedgehogs can eat 33% of their body weight if allowed. This is comparable to a 150-pound human eating 50 pounds of food.
• Obesity is the number one problem with captive hedgehogs and many die in a state of obesity. (Graffam)
• The most common disease associated with obesity is Fatty Liver Disease.
• Kitten food, wax worms, and ferret foods are very high in fat and calories (Smith).
• Exercise, appropriate foods, and limiting calorie intake are all ways to help keep your hedgehog healthy.

Introducing New Foods and Other Diet Tips

• Hedgehogs can have food allergies or reactions most commonly noticed as "green or yucky" poop.
• We suggest using the same approach to introducing new foods to hedgehogs as is recommend for human babies.
• Only one new food should be introduced at a time over a period of 2 to 3 days or a week. Should a problem arise it will be easier to detect what diet change initiated the problem.
• One way to provide environmental enrichment is to scatter a favorite food throughout the cage to encourage your hedgehog to "hunt" for its treat. This will help your hedgehog burn calories and exercise as well
• Most and fresh foods should be fed in the evening and remove uneaten portions in the morning.

Picky Eaters

• Hedgehogs are going to have their own taste preferences just like we prefer certain foods. Some hedgehogs will eat a variety of different foods every day and others will only eat their staple diet and nothing else. Most hedgehogs will have favorite foods and flat out refuse others.
• Like picky toddlers, hedgehogs may find that they really do like something after it has been offered to them several times.
• You will have greater success in coaching your hedgehog to try new foods if you start at a young age rather than waiting until they are older and set in their ways.
• It is a good idea to keep track of your hedgehog's food preferences and the food's effects in fecal quality. Some foods may not be appropriate on a regular basis but would be a good idea when your hedgehog isn't eating.

Nutritious Treats

• We suggest waiting to give your hedgehogs most treats until they are settled into their new home and eating on a regular schedule. By eight to ten weeks of age your hedgehog should be ready for treats. Freeze dried insects may be started earlier.
• Some hedgehogs love treats but others will prefer to stick to only their dry food.
• It is important to only introduce one new food or treat at a time. Should your hedgehog develop an upset stomach you will know which food or treat is to blame.
• Daily treats are acceptable but you don't spoil your hedgehog so that it is too full for its staple food.
• Once you find a food your hedgehog likes, don't over feed it. That way your hedgehog will continue to enjoy it as a treat rather than expect it as a standard part of the diet.
• Make sure you remove any uneaten portion of moist or fresh foods to prevent spoilage or contamination.
• Some hedgehog owners like to "hide" or scatter dry food treats to provide additional hedgehog activity.
• Refer to the selection below on the advantages of dropper feeding your hedgehog treats.
• More information is available in our Hedgehog Treats guide and our Insects A La Carte guide.

Lactose Intolerance

• Most adult mammals are not designed to digest milk well and should therefore be avoided in adult animals. (Graffam)
• Intolerance is demonstrated by stomach and intestinal problems are indicated by diarrhea and foul smelling stool.
• Yogurt containing live active cultures is easier than milk to digest and can be beneficial to your hedgie as it is a good source of calcium.
• Many care sheets suggest low fat cottage cheese and other cheeses as long as the hedgehog does not appear to have ill affects. Small amounts should be introduced during monitored feedings.

Fillers in Foods

• Studies have linked artificial fillers and preservatives in pet foods to cancers, ear infections, respiratory infections, joint problems, and a myriad of other health and wellness problems. (Hyne)
• One must be careful when looking at fillers because fillers can be processed differently and some may contain low-level chemicals due to the processing.
• According to Jim at Pet-Pro, fiber can be considered filler.
• Soy hulls are used by Pet-Pro specifically to increase the fiber that would ordinarily be obtained in nature. While some may some consider soy hulls filler, it decreases the need for added fibers. Pet-Pro Products uses natural fibers come from the use of whole grains in the products.
• The fiber and filler debate can be quite confusing because the nutritional value can be different for the same product depending on the type of processing.

Food Supplements

• Fiber may need to be added to some diets. Ways to add fiber to a hedgehog's diet include supplementing with Grape Nuts Cereal, Benefiber, or Baby Oatmeal.

Stinky Poop

• What goes into the hedgehog must come out of the hedgehog!
• Almost all poop stinks but what your hedgehog eats will determine how bad.
• Keeping track of how different foods affect your hedgehog's fecal quality will help you adjust its foods accordingly.
• Many foods offer free samples for you to try.

Hunger Strikes

• One of the most frustrating things for hedgehog owners is when their hedgehog goes on a hunger strike.
• Hunger strikes can begin for a variety of reasons including illness, change in environment, change in food, or temperature.
• The most important thing to do is to get your hedgehog started eating again. First, check your hedgehog to make sure there are no obvious signs of illness or stress as well as its housing temperature. Start tempting your hedgehog to eat with its favorite foods.
• Offering your hedgehog's favorite food soaked in low-sodium chicken broth or favorite canned cat foods will often do the trick.
• Hedgehog enthusiasts have developed various blended mixtures of foods to try to entice hedgehogs to start eating again. These recipes can be found in our Picky Eaters guide.
• A trip to the veterinarian is required if your hedgehog stops drinking or refuses to eat for more than a few days.

Diet Related Articles

• Choline Supplementation by Antigone Means-Burleson found at www.hedgehogvalley.com or www.hedgehogworld.com
• Chromium Supplementation by Antigone Means-Burleson found at www.hedgehogworld.com

Resources Graffam, Wendy Ph.D. Hedgehog Nutrition Research. Outline of presentation from from Go Hog Wild, 1998.

Hyne, Steph. Posts found on www.chinsandquills.com and www.cuddlycrittersexotics.com

Selecting a diet is one of the most important decisions you can make for your pet. This guide contains diet recommendations that are based on information we have gathered from other breeders (both large and small scale), nutrition experts, veterinarians, and other experts, as well as our own 10+ years of hedgehog breeding experience. Diet plays an important role in reproduction, growth of babies, the overall health of your pet, and in longevity. We have attempted to address basic hedgehog nutrition in our Nutrition Overview article.

Our hedgehog diet has evolved over the years and will probably change in the future as we learn more and new products are developed. We have tried and tested just about every hedgehog specific food out there as well as many other breeder recommendations. We have found there are several factors that should be considered when selecting a diet:

• Nutritional content. Not all foods are created equal, but keep in mind the perfect food has not yet been determined.
• Accessibility and convenience. Once a food has been determined to be nutritionally fit it must be easily accessible to both the breeder and their customers. In addition, complicated diets present a problem from a breeder's perspective and complicated diets are less likely for the average pet owner to follow over an extended period of time.
• Nutritional value compared to cost. Cost plays a part for both the average breeder and pet owner when selecting a diet. It is important that nutrition is not sacrificed for sake of cutting expenses but it is only logical that breeders and pet owners choose the more economical versions of equivalent foods.

Follow Breeder Recommendations

• Whether purchasing from Millermeade Farms or from another breeder, it is important to follow the breeder's recommendations for at least the first month of transition. A transition should be started right away only if the current diet is not nutritionally sound or if the hedgehog begins to develop problems.
• Countless times I personally have experienced and witnessed the results of switching foods and keeping animals on the same food. Some species of animals such as mice, rats, and hamsters transition quite well. Other species such as rabbits, sugar gliders and hedgehogs have a much trickier time in transition.
• Only buy quality animals and maintain that integrity. I firmly believe that different bloodlines become accustomed to certain diets and switching foods can create an imbalance in those animals. I have seen this play out in breeding and showing rabbits as well as countless other animals.
• Millermeade Farms no longer supplies a week's worth of food with our animals. We have found that a week is not enough transition time to a new food. Purchasing food separately from the animals helps you to identify both the initial cost of your pet and reoccurring expenses you will have for the life of your pet. Our Diet During Transition guide gives more details on this subject.
• I have found that variety is an important key to hedgehog nutrition. Variety is discussed below and in our Nutrition Overview.

Variety in Diet

• A varied diet is probably the safest way to meet a hedgehog's unique and somewhat mysterious nutritional requirements.
• Providing a variety of foods will help to prevent your hedgehog from becoming attached to only one food. You could have a serious problem with your hedgehog not eating if your pet is attached to one food and that food becomes unavailable or you run out.
• Changes in diet are more easily made if only a portion of the varied diet is changed rather than an entire change in diet.

Our Blend

• Millermeade Farms uses a blend of three different foods in our staple.
• Spike's Delite Premium Hedgehog Food (described below) is the one food that never changes in our diet.
• Our current high quality cat food of choice is Chicken Soup for the Cat Lover's Soul Lite made by Diamond Pet Products. This holistic food is made from quality ingredients and is very reasonably priced.
• Special Kitty cat food is what I would consider the hedgehog version of "French fries" in our food mix. Our hedgehogs love the taste of this food and will often pick it out of the mix first. Keep in mind, just because they love the taste doesn't mean it is the best food for them.
• It is always a good idea to switch foods gradually to ensure your hedgehog is accepting of the new food.
• We provide our customers with the opportunity to purchase Spike's Delite and we strongly encourage each of our hedgehog customers to do so. We will have you sign a note on your receipt if you choose not to purchase these foods. We want you to acknowledge that you understand the potential problems that you may encounter and that you are willing to accept these risks of not following our transition suggestions if you choose not to purchase these foods.

Spike's Delite

• If you choose to use only one food I would recommend Spike's Delite Hedgehog Food. A single, adult hedgehog will eat approximately one heaping tablespoon to ¼ cup of Spike's Delite per day.
• I believe Spike's Delite is a superior hedgehog food for the following reasons:

• The premium diet has an excellent protein and fat content of 32% protein and 12% fat
• It contains six sources of protein (chicken meal, soybean meal, extruded whole soy-meal, fish meal, whole dried eggs, and blood meal) with chicken meal being the main ingredient. A variety of protein sources provides a variety of amino acids to your pet.
• Spike's Delite is the optimal kibble size for both babies and adults. It is large enough that it can be picked up easily but still small enough for babies and adults to chew easily.
• The Spike's Delite kibble is hard enough to provide a crunch and to help clean teeth but it absorbs water or broth readily to make a suitable mash for hedgies with special needs.
• Extrusion method processing for maximum digestibility. The method of processing dramatically affects the quality of nutrients available and how the nutrients are used by the animal. More information about this type of processing is available by request.
• Celated trace minerals – a process by which trace elements are combined with an amino acid which allows for immediate absorption of the minerals. Very few foods contain this benefit.
• It contains higher amounts of potassium and lower amounts of iron than traditional cat food. The current formula is based on recommendations made by many respectable breeders after years of use.
• No added pesticides or preservatives.
• Four varieties designed to meet the nutritional needs throughout various stages of life.

• Spike's Delite is made by Pet-Pro Products, an exotic animal feed company, and is not available at most pet stores. You can order direct at by calling toll-free 1-877-977-8310. Free samples are available for new customers. You will receive a 10% discount if you mention that "Gail Dick" is your sales representative.
• I suggest keeping Spike's Delite in the refrigerator since it does not contain added pesticides or strong preservatives.

Mink Gro-Fur/Select Diet

• Milk Specialties makes a food called Mink-Gro Fur that is often repacked and labeled as Select Diet.
• It is a very dark, small, semi-soft pellet that high in fat and protein.
• We use Select Diet for our nursing mothers, young and weanling babies, and any other hedgehog that has eating issues or needs to gain a little weight.
• We strongly suggest purchasing a small bag of Select with your hedgehog.
• This food has proven to be an excellent booster for animals in transition into new homes.
• It helps to encourage eating since the hedgehogs love the high fat and protein, it sooths upset stomachs, and provide extra calories for growing babies.
• This food is very rich and can be a major contributor to obesity so you should take care that your hedgehog doesn't pick out and eat only the booster food.
• It is also somewhat difficult to find and purchase. We buy directly from Mink Specialties company in 50# bags.

Cat Foods

• Just about any information that you read will have slightly various recommendations and use preferences of cat foods.
• High quality foods are certainly good for your pet and are frequently fed by hedgehog enthusiasts.
• Large-scale breeders produce many of the hedgehogs in the U.S., European, and Japanese pet markets. Large scale breeders have found that what some would consider lower quality foods, have actually been proven as an adequate diet on a large number of animals for many years. These breeders must be concerned about the overall health of their animals because without successful production and healthy offspring they would not be able to support their business.
• I have been fortunate enough to be able to discuss hedgehog nutrition with several large-scale breeders and I have found that each breeder has come to their own conclusion as what has produced the best results for their herd.
• I have also been fortunate enough to have purchased animals from several experienced, larger scale breeders and I can attest that their animal do best when they are maintained on the diet recommended by that breeder.
• I am certainly not advocating feeding hedgehogs junk, but I do think we under estimate the value of some foods and one must pay careful attention to breeder recommendations.

Generally Accepted as Excellent Cat Foods

• Authority Adult Cat
• Buffalo Blue
• California Natural
• Chicken Soup for the Cat Lovers Soul
• Eagle Pack
• Evolve
• Exclusive Light/Hairball Control
• Solid Gold
• Wellness Felidae
• Innova
• MaxCat
• Natural Balance
• Pet Gold- Adult Cat Light
• Pinnacle
• Royal Canin Lite 37 or 38
• Wysong

Cat Foods Used In Moderation

• Eukanuba
• Purina Indoor Cat
• Purina One
• Nutro (large kibble size)
• Special Kitty

Unlimited Free Feeding vs Daily Monitored Feeding

• I found just as many differences in opinions on this topic while doing research for this care guide as I have found with other topics.
• There are some people that firmly believe that hedgehogs should have food in front of them at all times and some believe hedgehogs will not over-eat.
• Please note: baby hedgehogs, nursing moms, or slim body type hedgehogs should not be limited in the amount of food but at the same time their food intake should be monitored closely.

Advantages of daily monitored feeding

• My own experience is contrary to the free-feeding belief. It is very common in many animal species to only be fed once per day. Daily rationed feeding helps to prevent over-eating, obesity, and the health problems associated with obesity. Most human diet plans are based on this same principal.
• We believe that monitoring your hedgehog's food intake will keep your hedgehog from getting too fat.
• Obesity and its associated health disorders are very common problems in pet hedgehogs.
• Daily monitored feeding will let you know if it has stopped eating. If your hedgehog suddenly stops eating you need to find out why it isn't eating.
• We prefer to give our fresh food rather than allowing some food to sit out for what may be a period of several days

Determining the appropriate amount during daily monitored feeding

• We recommend that you give your adult hedgehog only enough food so that it is completely gone or almost gone the same time the next day. You should give your hedgehog enough so that your hedgehog doesn't act like it is starving at its next meal. This will be 1 Tablespoon to ¼ cup depending on your hedgehog (its metabolism, stage of growth and activity level) and the quality of food.
• If you feed your hedgehog in the evening and it acts hungry in the morning give it a little more food but not so much that it has lots of food remaining in the evening.
• We prefer to feed our hedgehogs one portion, one time a day but some people prefer to feed two smaller portions each day.
• Your hedgehog will adjust to feeding at any time during the day or evening but it is important to be consistent in that you feed at the same time every day.

Food Storage

• Proper food storage is essential to keeping your food fresh. This protects not only the integrity of the food nutritionally but it helps to maintain the palatability of the food for your pet.
• We suggest purchasing a food storage container from your local dollar store or variety store. A good sized container with a screw-top lid can usually be found for around a dollar.
• A portion of food can be kept in a sealed container close to your hedgehog's cage for easy access. We suggest the remaining portion of the food be stored in a sealed container in the refrigerator.
• We also suggest taking a Sharpie or other permanent marker and writing the number of Pet-Pro Products, where you will order Spike's Delite, on the lid of the container. The toll-free number is 1-877-977-8310. Don't forget to tell them you are one of my customers to save 10%.
• Another suggestion is to start a food log on your container so you know how frequently you have to purchase food.
• Freezing extra portions of food is another option. The food should be tightly sealed, preferably with a vacuum sealer if possible. Be sure to move the food from the freezer to the refrigerator rather than directly to room temperature. Food moved directly to room temperature will develop condensation which can cause spoilage.
• We have found that other pets such as cats and dogs also love the taste of Spike's Delite and Select Diet. On several occasions customers have called in a panic because their hedgehog food was devoured by other pets. Storage containers are a great way to prevent this problem.

Diet and Exercise

• Exercise is another critical component to keeping your pet healthy and preventing obesity.
• Ample cage space, play-time, balls, and wheels are all ways to stimulate your pet and to encourage it to exercise.
• A healthy hedgehog is well-muscled and not fat. A proper diet and frequent exercise help to build muscles and increase the longevity of your pet.
• Cages size, toys and accessories and play time activities are discussed on several of our other guides.

Our Blend

• Millermeade Farms uses a blend of three different foods in our staple diet plus a supplemental food for mothers with babies and weanling babies going to new homes.
• Spike's Delite Hedgehog Food (described in our Diet Recommendations guide) is the one food that never changes in our diet.
• Our current high quality cat food of choice is Chicken Soup for the Cat Lover's Soul Lite made by Diamond Pet Products. This holistic food is made from quality ingredients and is very reasonably priced.
• Special Kitty cat food is what I would consider the hedgehog version of "French fries" in our mix. Our hedgehogs love the taste of this food and will often pick it out of the mix first but I'm not convinced that the nutritional properties of this food make it the best food choice. Keep in mind just because they love the taste doesn't mean it is the best food for them. This food was designed with cats in mind. More cat food options are discussed below.
• Mink-Gro Fur/ Select Diet has proven to be an excellent booster food for animals in transition into new homes. Once the small bag you purchase is gone you will not need to purchase any more. More information about this product is in our Diet Recommendations guide.
• Hedgie 1st Crumbs is a new food currently being developed by Pet-Pro Products. We are testing this food in hopes to replace the Mink-Gro Fur food in our diet plan.
• It is always a good idea to switch foods gradually to ensure your hedgehog is accepting of the new food.
  
• We provide our customers with the opportunity to purchase Spike's Delite and Select Diet (or 1st Crumbs) and we strongly encourage each of our hedgehog customers to do so. We will have you sign a note on your receipt if you choose not to purchase these foods. We want you to acknowledge that you understand the potential problems that you may encounter and that you are willing to accept these risks of not following our transition suggestions if you choose not to purchase these foods.

Transition From Our Home To Your Home - Food

• Baby hedgehogs in transition to new homes are subject to "shipping" stress. Shipping stress occurs in all types of animals and can occur at any age.
• The most common problems during shipping stress are diarrhea, or loose stools, and/or not eating.
• The use of Milk Specialties' Mink Gro-Fur or "Select Diet" along with the same diet we use here has virtually eliminated these problems.
• We suggest starting out with about 1 TBSP of Spike's Delite or your Spike's Delite and cat food mix plus about a 1 tsp of the Select Diet on top.
• You may need to adjust the amount of food you give to your hedgehog depending on its activity level.
• You can increase the amount of Select Diet for a hedgehog with loose stool or one that isn't as inclined to eat right away. The amount of Select Diet should be cut back as soon as the hedgehog starts eating well and having firm bowl movements.
• You don't want your hedgehog to become dependent on this food because it is only a temporary part of your diet.

Determining How Much to Feed Your New Pet

• We use what may best be described as daily monitored feeding.
• We recommend that you give your adult hedgehog only enough food so that it is completely gone or almost gone the same time the next day. This will be 1 Tablespoon to ¼ cup depending on your hedgehog and the quality of food.
• Most babies won't eat a full tablespoon of the mix (or Spike's alone) plus the Select diet. Until your baby is through transition and you learn its eating habits it is o.k. to give it a little extra food.
• Check how quickly your hedgehog eats all of its food. If you feed your new hedgehog in the evening and it acts hungry in the morning give it a little more food.

When to Feed Your Hedgehog

• Hedgehogs are typically diurnal (awake during dusk and dawn) to nocturnal animals. Wild hedgehogs typically spend most of their awake-time hunting for food.
• We feed our animals in the morning because that is what our schedule allows. Our animals know the routine and are very well adjusted. Most of our hedgehogs come out and take a nibble of their favorite part of the mix and then go back to sleep and eat the rest in the evening.
• Other hedgehog owners find that evening feeding works well for them and it certainly doesn't hurt hedgehogs to adjust them to a new routine.
• Moist or wet food or treats should only be left in the cage about four hours to prevent spoilage so keep that in mind when developing a routine.
• Your hedgehog will adjust to feeding at any time during the day or evening but it is important to be consistent in that you feed at the same time every day.

Determining If Your Hedgehog Is Eating Enough

• It is very common for hedgehogs to eat very little the first day or two in its new home.
• Using the transition food and maintaining the same diet will certainly help your new hedgehog adjust more quickly.
• Leaving your hedgehog's wheel out for the first day or two will also help in the transition.
• Hedgehogs will eat different amounts depending on their stage in growth, metabolism, activity level, and quality of food. Unfortunately there isn't an exact amount that will tell you how much is enough.
• Monitoring what comes out of your hedgehog is a good way to determine what is going into your hedgehog. The color, smell, and shape of a bowl movement can give you clues as to exactly what your hedgehog has been eating.
• Every parent knows that a good-sized, well-formed bowl movement is a good sign of a healthy body.
• Teeny-tiny and hard little deposits are a sign that your hedgehog may not be eating and drinking enough, but something is obviously better than nothing.

Transition From Our Home To Your Home - Water

• Hedgehogs, like most other animals, need access to fresh, clean water.
• Almost every home has slightly different tasting water.
• Our water here is going to have a unique smell and taste compared to your water.
• Some hedgehogs have a hard time adjusting to different tasting water especially if it is highly chlorinated.
• We recommend using bottled water, filtered, or purified water. This type of water has a more "neutral" taste.
• A comparison to my own drinking preferences is that I personally like Coca Cola and I will drink several if they are sitting in front of me. On the other hand I hate Diet Coke and I would rather go thirsty than drink it. I will drink almost any other flavor of beverage (other than cola) if Coke is not available.
• A hedgehog that is not inclined to drink may be stimulated by adding 50% Gatorade to the water. One should offer both plain and flavored water so that the hedgehog has a choice.
• All of our hedgehogs use a water bottle. Some people choose to offer water in a dish as another method to increase water consumption but we have never needed to do so with our hedgehogs.

Under Development...

Purpose of Treats

• Providing treats to your pet hedgehog is both beneficial to you and your pet.
• We enjoy offering the treats and watching our pets benefit from our efforts.
• Variety
  • One of the primary reasons for feeding treats to your pet is to provide a variety in their diet.
  • The Hedgehog Diet Overview describes why variety is beneficial to your hedgehog. Different tastes and textures of foods provide enrichment as well as a source of nutrients that may be missing from its staple diet.
• Environmental Enrichment
  • "Hiding" or scattering dry food treats encourages the hedgehog to forage as it would in its natural environment. Dry treats are preferred over moist treats that could spoil if undiscovered when hiding or scattering food.
  • Stimulating hedgehog activity encourages exercise, which is beneficial to your hedgehog's overall health.
• Bonding
  • The giver of treats is always more welcome than empty hand.
  • A happy hedgehog is more social and will look forward to handling and interaction.
• Refer to the selection below on the advantages of dropper feeding your hedgehog treats.

Treat Guidelines

• We suggest waiting to give your hedgehogs treats until they are settled into their new home and eating on a regular schedule.
• Freeze-dried insects or live insects are good starter treats for your hedgehog. Freeze insects can be started right away but allowing a hedgehog adjust to its new environment will help prepare it for the hunting of live food.
• By eight to ten weeks of age your hedgie should be ready for soft or moist treats.
• Some hedgehogs love treats but other hedgies will prefer to stick to only their dry food. You may try some treats several times before your hedgehog decides to give it a try.
• It is important to only introduce one new food or treat at a time. Should your hedgehog develop an upset stomach you will know which food or treat is to blame.
• Daily nutritious treats in small quantities are acceptable but don't spoil your hedgie so that it is too full for its staple food.
• Once you find a food your hedgie likes, don't over feed it. That way your hedgehog will continue to enjoy it as a treat rather than expect it as a standard part of the diet.
• Make sure you remove any uneaten portion of moist or fresh foods after four hours to prevent spoilage or contamination.
• Some hedgehog owners keep a journal of treats they tried and the hedgehog's response.
• BEWARE – treats will change your hedgehog's stool. Some treats may cause diarrhea, green poops, or extremely stinky poop.

Suggested Treats

• Treats that provide nutrition are always more beneficial than food items that seem to be little more than empty calories.
• Insects
  • Insectivores by nature, hedgehogs typically love insects. It is a good idea to include insects as part of your hedgehog's balanced diet.
  • The most popular insects of hedgehogs and hedgehog owners are mealworms, wax worms, silk worms and crickets.
  • Treats can include live, canned or freeze dried crickets, mealworms (only one or two per day), wax worms or other insects.
  • We prefer to use pet-quality, farm raised insects to wild caught insects because of the risk of parasite infection, insecticide exposure or other toxins in wild caught bugs.
  • Even though hedgehogs are insectivores, a captive hedgehog diet of insects would not be nutritionally complete.
  • When purchasing insects one needs to find out if they have been recently fed or "gut loaded". Insects that haven't been fed are mainly empty shells that are imbalanced in calcium and phosphorus. (Graffam)
  • Please refer to our Insects A La Carte guide for more information on this subject.

• Meats
  • Most meats fine as long as they are grilled, broiled, baked, boiled, or even cooked in the microwave. Do NOT feed raw meats or processed meats.
  • Meats should be cooked with oil or butter and should not be seasoned.
  • It is never a good idea to feed raw meats because of the risk of salmonella or other bacterial or parasitic infections.
  • Meats should be cooked until tender and cut into small pieces.
  • Some hedgie meat favorites are: grilled salmon, chicken, and turkey.
  • Beef and pork are acceptable but should be fed in moderation. These meats are less easily digested and contain lower calcium and higher phosphorus levels than other alternatives.
  • Meats are not suitable as a main portion of the hedgehog's diet. Unsupplemented meats do not provide adequate calcium, balanced minerals, tooth abrasion, and adequate vitamins. (Graffam).
• Eggs, Tofu, and Rice
  • Scrambled or hard-boiled eggs are a popular favorite with most hedgehogs. The best way to scramble eggs is in the microwave with no added oils or seasonings.
  • Make sure the eggs are not too hot when you give them to your hedgie.
  • One hedgehog owner told us that her hedgie enjoyed ONLY fresh breakfast scrambled eggs rather than leftovers later in the day

• Fruits and Vegetables
  • Hedgehogs do not breakdown cellulose in plant and vegetable matter as well as other animals. Fruits are softer and typically easier to digest than vegetables.
  • All vegetables should be diced into small pieces and most should be cooked in the microwave, boiled, or steamed so they are soft.
  • Hard vegetable such as carrots and sweet potatoes should be cooked to prevent choking hazards.
  • Corn and peas contain excess phosphorus, which decreases the calcium absorption and should only be fed in small amounts.

Popular Fruits

• Apple
• Banana
• Blue berries
• CantaloupeHoneydew
• Mango
• Papaya
• PineappleRaspberries
• Strawberries
• Watermelon

Popular Vegetables

• Asparagus
• Bell Peppers
• Carrots (cooked)
• Corn – small amountsCucumber
• Green Beans
• Peas
• RadishesSweet Potato (cooked)
• Turnips
• Zucchini

• Baby Foods
  • Many people enjoy giving their hedgies baby food as treats.
  • Baby foods are easy too store and relatively inexpensive.
  • Gerber Stage 2 Baby Foods Meat in Gravy is a favorite treat. This stage has only meat, water, and corn starch
  • Baby food fruits and vegetables, chicken and applesauce, and meat sticks are also popular.
  • Higher stage foods may have added sugar, onion powder, salt, and other ingredients that should be avoided.
• Yogurt, Cottage Cheese, and Other Dairy
  • Hedgehogs are thought to be somewhat lactose intolerant to milk but yogurt and cottage cheese seem to be easier for hedgehogs to digest.
  • The yogurt and cottage cheese provide extra calcium to your hedgies diet and the yogurt provides beneficial bacteria as well.
  • In one of her posts on Chins-n-Quills, Steph Hyne said she gives her hedgehogs Low Fat Plain Organic Yogurt or Low Fat Cottage Cheese to all of her hedgehogs.
• Non-human foods as treats
  • Canned or moist cat foods are easily accessible and relatively cheap to try.
  • Ferret treats are another option if you have them available.

Treats to Avoid

• Sweet foods containing refined or processed sugars are not a good source of treats for your pet. We suggest that you completely avoid chocolate because it can be toxic for hedgehogs and other animals.
• Fried foods are not a good idea because the grease can upset the hedgehog's stomach and the excess calories are not good for hedgehogs on the heavy side.
• Hedgehogs are somewhat lactose intolerant so milk should be avoided. Dairy products such as yogurt and cottage cheese can be given in small amounts but they can cause intestinal upset and diarrhea.
• Hard foods such as peanuts, almonds, and raw carrots are choking hazards. One of our customers had an emergency trip to the veterinarian one night because their hedgehog had an almond lodged in its throat!
• Sticky foods such as raisins or other dried fruit are not a good idea because they can stick to the roof of the hedgehog's mouth or to its teeth causing discomfort and tooth decay.
• Fibrous or stringy foods such as celery are hard to chew and digest.
• Raw eggs or meat should be completely avoided because of the risk of Salmonella.
• Spicy and foods such as onions and garlic may be upsetting to your hedgehog's stomach.
• Controversial foods in the pet industry include grapes (with seeds) and avocados.
• Salty foods such as many canned meats and vegetables can not only upset your hedgehogs stomach but it can cause electrolyte imbalances as well

Quick Reference List of Foods to Avoid

• Avocado - controversial
• Chocolate
• Eggs – raw
• Fried foods
• Fried Foods
• Garlic
• Grapes - controversial
• Meat - canned
• Meat – processed (hot dogs)
• Meat – raw
• Milk
• Nuts
• Onions
• Outdoor insects
• Raisins and other dried fruit

Feeding Tools

• Hedgehogs that are hand fed or allowed to lick may take the next natural step and bite.
• Biting the hand that feeds it is only natural when the animal is looking for more food.
• Your hedgehog is not as tempted to bite your hand if it associates food and treats with an inanimate object.

Small Crocks or Plates

• The purpose of using small crocks or plates is to keep the treats separate from the bedding and to allow the hedgehog to find it easier.
• Small 3" ceramic crocks are great for soft or moist foods

Feeding Tongs

• It is common practice for herpetologists or reptile hobbyists to feed their reptiles using feeding tongs. Using tongs helps prevent food related biting incidents.
• Feeding tongs prevents strike bites in reptiles but they can prevent chops in other animal species as well.
• The animal learns to associate the food with the tongs instead of the hand. They also help keep food smell off your hands so there is less of a lingering temptation to bite following feeding.
• We believe biting prevention and training is far easier and beneficial to your pet than trying to correct a problem or being frustrated with your pet for doing what comes natural.

Dropper or Syringe Feeding

• In one of her posts on Chins-n-Quills, Steph Hyne said she gives all of her hedgehogs yogurt or baby food from a children's medicine dropper every week.
• This proactive approach to feeding is beneficial to both the bonding process of little hedgies as well as an easy way to train your hedgehog to accept hand feeding should the need arise as it gets older.
• Sick or ailing hedgehogs may have to be dropper fed their food or medication through some type of syringe or medicine dropper.
• Hedgehogs that are accustomed to accepting treats through a syringe will not put up a fight when they need supplements or medications later on in their life.

Please refer to our Resource List for References

Benefits of Insects as Treats

• Insects are the most common treat for pet hedgehogs.
• Hedgehogs are insectivores by nature and a large portion of their diet in the wild consists of insects.
• Hedgehogs in the wild and captive bred hedgehogs do have different nutritional requirements and needs because of the differences in their activity levels.
• Wild hedgehogs are often able to adjust what they eat according to their needs. Pet hedgehogs eat what we give them because it is the only thing available to them. It isn't a good idea to feed a straight insect diet because chances are good that it will not meet all of the hedgehogs' nutritional requirements.
• We suggest using feeding tongs or tweezers when feeding insects. Hedgehogs have poor eyesight and may nibble on your finger trying to get its treat. After it has eaten its treat your fingers will still smell like insects.

Store Bought versus Wild Caught

• We strongly encourage you to feed your hedgehogs only insects that are raised as feeders.
• When you feed your pet insects you are also feeding your hedgehog whatever the insects have eaten.
• Wild caught bugs can carry parasites, toxins and bacteria.
• Even if you do not use pesticides or herbicides your neighbors or near by farmers might use them. The toxins in the insects can build up in your hedgehog over a period of time.
• Parasites are found in soils, on plants, and are carried by most types of insects. Livestock, cats, dogs, and many other animals that are outdoors need to be routinely wormed to take care of parasites. Hedgehogs that eat wild caught insects or spend time in outdoor play may also need to be wormed.
• Insects used as bait are often raised on manure. Manure contains parasites, which are then passed along to your hedgies.

Feeding Options

Live

• Live insects provide stimulation and environmental enrichment for your hedgehog. Some hedgehogs are enthusiastic hunters but others are rather lazy and would prefer not to make the effort to catch their food.
• Bathtubs or laundry sinks are great places to feed live insects. The hedgie can learn that when it is placed in such a place that it is going to get a treat and it will search for the bugs. Uneaten insects can be easily caught.
• Remove uneaten insects after about 15 minutes.
• Live insects must be stored and fed according to their needs. Insects that are not properly housed and fed will not have the same nutritional content.

Freeze Dried

• Freeze dried insects are available through several suppliers.
• These insects are sold by weight and are typically the cheapest per bug.
• They have a long shelf life and do not smell nearly as bad as canned crickets.

Canned

• Canned insects are juicy and have the strongest odor. What is stinky to us tends to smell quite delicious to our four-legged friends!
• Canned insects need to be refrigerated once opened and have a relatively short shelf life compared to freeze dried insects but are still more convenient than live bugs.

Nutritional Analysis Comparison

ENFD – Exotic Nutrition's Freeze Dried
ETC – Exo Terra Canned
FFD – Fluker's Freeze Dried
GCF – Gahnn's Cricket Farm
GRU – Grubco
ZMC – Zoo Med's Canned

Insect Variety Comparison

• The table above demonstrates that the nutritional content of insects varies not only between species of insects but between canned, live, and freeze dried versions as well as between vendors.
• When studying the protein and fat content it is important to note the moisture content as well. Generally speaking, the higher the moisture contents, the lower the percentage of the protein and fat.

Crickets

• Crickets can be purchased live from pet stores or online insect suppliers. Live crickets should be "gut loaded". The food the cricket has eaten (in its gut) is also beneficial to your hedgehog. Gut loaded crickets have more vitamins, minerals, calcium, and nutrition than a cricket that hasn't been fed properly.
• Live crickets can be pre-killed or stunned for lazy hedgehogs by placing them in the freezer. Crickets in the freezer for only a short amount of time will revive so if you are intending to kill them they should be left in the freezer overnight.
• Freeze dried crickets are brittle and should be stored in a plastic containers to prevent crumbling.
• Crickets should be maintained in a large aquarium with a screen or mesh lid or other specialized container. Cardboard egg crates provide hiding places and keep the crickets from trampling each other. They should be fed a high-calcium cricket food and water should be provided via carrots, sweet potatoes, a moist sponge on a shallow dish, or specialized cricket gel.

Earthworms and Night Crawlers

• According to Becca at Daisy Meadows, "Night crawlers and earthworms are just about guaranteed to give your hedgehog foul smelly, liquidy poos, and cutting them into manageable portions is almost as icky as the poo that the hedgehog produces."
• Earthworms carry lungworm or threadworm, which can be transmitted to your hedgehog and is fatal.

Mealworms

• Mealworms have a three-stage life cycle: larvae, pupae, and beetle.
• The mealworms that you buy are in the larval stage of mealworm development but all stages are edible for your hedgehog.
• It is fairly easy to raise your own mealworm colony at home if you have the time and a little extra space.
• A mealworm colony needs normal/warm room temperature and simple food requirements. Several internet sites are devoted to raising mealworms as feeders.
• Feeder mealworms should be kept in the refrigerator and maintained on a high calcium insect food as bedding.
• Mealworms will turn into beetles if they are not kept in the refrigerator.

Silk Worms

• Harder to find and more expensive and harder to find but they have many benefits that may be worth the extra effort.
• www.buyfruitflies.com states "Silkworms are easy to care for, undemanding, have a low mortality rate and last over a week without food and up to a month or more with food. You can easily grow them up to three inches or more by feeding them mulberry leaves or our silkworm food."
• Higher in calcium and lower in fat than other insects.
• Their soft exoskeleton makes them easy to digest.
• They don't escape.
• According to some hedgehog owners even picky hedgehogs tend to like them!

Snails and Slugs

• Wild caught snails and slugs can carry lung worm or threadworm which can be transmitted to your hedgehog and is fatal.
• Farm raised, canned, shelled snails are available in the reptile section of pet stores.

Super Worms

• Zoophobias or superworms look a lot like mealworms but are more than twice the size and are much more aggressive than mealworms.
• Super worms have been known to bite hedgehogs both before the hedgehog has eaten them and after they are in the stomach cavity.
• Super worm attacks are often thought of as urban myths. However, a friend and fellow hedgehog breeder, Jeanne Stanoch of Prickly Hedgies, had a hedgehog that indeed died after eating super worms. According to Jeanne a few hours after eating super worms a female hedgehog started bleeding from the mouth and vomiting blood. After she died a necropsy was preformed and wounds were found on the inside of the hedgehog's stomach which had been done by the super worms. Although the super worm was dead the head was still intact.
• We suggest feeding only dead super worms. An easy way to pre-kill the super worms is to simply put them in the freezer.

Wax Worms

• Wax worms are the larval stage of the wax moth.
• They are more expensive and harder to find than other insects.
• Wax worms are high in fat and should be fed sparingly.
• The roasted variety smells a lot like peanut butter and is sure to get your hedgehog's attention (Loane).
• Wax worms should be kept in the refrigerator and maintained on a high calcium insect food as bedding.

Insect Food

Food/Bedding

• Insects are not traditional fed out of a dish but rather their food is used as bedding.
• Many commercial and homemade bedding options are available.
• Most stores that supply feeder insects also supply the food to maintain and care for them properly.
• Proper care of your feeder insects will help ensure optimal nutritional value of the insect for your pet.

Nutritional Advisory Group Handbook
Insects As A Part of the Diet. Becca Loane. www.daisymeadows.com
Grow Your Own Meal Worms www.harmorhollow.com
Stanoch, Jeanne. Prickly Hedgies