Acclimation to New Home

• When your hedgehog gets home you will want to let it acclimate to its new cage.
• Make sure it is warm, comfortable, and able to find its food dish and water bottle. The water level should be placed so that the tip of the bottle is the hedgehog's shoulder height.
• Please allow your hedgehog time to rest after the ride home. It may take awhile for it to adjust to its new surroundings or it may be relaxed and ready to play right away.
• We suggest that you wait to put the wheel until after the second or third day home. Your hedgehog should be eating and eliminating regularly before you introduces additional stimulation to the cage.
• Some hedgies are more interested in wheeling than eating or they wheel so much that they are too tired to eat after all their activity. A good comparison is my children at the park – they play and play and don't want to stop and eat, then fall asleep in the car on the way home without getting a full meal.
• It is always a good idea to quarantine any new animals from other animals in your home for two weeks. We understand that it isn't always possible but it will help minimize the stress of the new animal and decrease the risk of an illness or disease among pets.
• What is normal bacterial flora for one species of animals may be harmful for other species. This is especially true for bacteria between birds or reptiles, and mammals.

Behavior Changes

• It is not uncommon for new pet owners to notice a change in behavior from the time when they purchased their hedgehog and the time they took their new pet home.
• The friendly outgoing hedgie that crawled all over you and cuddled in your shirt is now a shy ball of prickles. There are a few reasons why you are seeing a change and some things you can do to help you and your hedgie relax.
• Changes in environment are stressful for most animals and each animal will respond to the stress differently.
  • Some hedgehogs will check out their new cage and home immediately. Others will revert to their shy and nature and will be inclined to protect themselves from the unknown.
  • Your hedgie may be thinking "Where am I? I don't know this place, this person so I should hide from this scary new situation". My best description compared to children (or adults!) that are at home singing super stars and will sing like they are going to be the next American Idol. Get them out in public and they are shy, nervous and lacking the confidence they had in their own living room. It isn't that they can't sing it is that they are afraid to let it out. Your hedgie is the same way, it isn't that it isn't suddenly a totally different animal but you will need to help it relax and become comfortable with you.
• Most new owners are a little nervous around their new pet and the hedgehogs can pick up on their nervousness.
  • Handling hedgehogs takes time, patience, and practice. We do our best to give our customers training, practice, and encouragement during the selection process.
  • Many new owners are more nervous and unsure about handling their new pet when they are at home on their own. Hedgehogs can pick up on that nervousness and may think "Gee, they're nervous about something, I should be nervous about something. I'd better protect myself from what is about to happen".
  • You may be afraid of their prickles but they are afraid of YOU.
  • It takes practice to be an experienced hedgie handler. Unfortunately some of our handling inadequacies can make nervous hedgies even more nervous.
  • With patience, time and remembering the basic handling principals you and your hedgies can overcome prickly beginnings.
  • However, if you don't handle your hedgehog the way it wants to be handled it won't respond to you the way you want it to respond.
• Vacations or other periods of time without handling can contribute to a set back in the bonding process.
• Hedgehogs will also become more shy and nervous over time if they are not handled regularly.
• According to Lori Keller, hedgehog rescue coordinator, rescue hedgies are generally intractable and grouchy as a result of not being handled regularly or properly. When handled properly and consistently many grouchy hedgehogs can be rehabbed into wonderful pets.

Eating Habits

• It is not uncommon for hedgies to skip their first meal in their new home.
• Sometimes hedgehogs are just too busy sleeping or exploring to take the time to eat.
• Millermeade Farms provides a week's worth of food with every hedgehog. We do suggest that you purchase additional food with your hedgehog.
• It is a good idea to keep your hedgehog on the same diet for at least a month to make sure it is well adjusted to its new home.
• Try new foods gradually instead of introducing a new food "cold turkey". If a hedgehog doesn't like a new food it simply won't eat.

Sleeping Habits

• Your new hedgehog will most likely sleep all day and quite a bit in the evening hours. Many hedgehog owners think their hedgehogs sleep "all the time".
• Hedgehogs are nocturnal by nature so they are naturally going to sleep during daylight hours. Many hedgehogs are not inclined to wake up until the lights go out for the evening.
• Baby animals are known to sleep more than adults so don't be surprised if you need to wake your hedgehog up for playtime.

Optimal Temperature

• Keep your hedgehog out of drafts and in a warm and well-lit location but not direct sunlight.
• Various books and online care information will suggest temperatures ranging from 65°F to 80°F as the preferred temperature.
• Our hedgehogs are accustomed to temperatures around 75°F. We prefer our animal room to stay between 74°F and 80°F.
• You should shoot for a higher temperature if the temperature is going to fluctuate so that the lower temperature is still within the recommended range.
• Lower temperatures leads to eating less and lower activity that makes the animal more susceptible to respiratory and other opportunistic infections (Smith).
• Temperatures below 65°F can induce torpor that can be very dangerous to your pet.
• Other hedgehog owners may suggest cooler temperatures as low as 65°F but we have found that our hedgehogs are healthier, happier, and more active at warmer temperatures.
• A sign that your hedgie is too hot is that it is spread out with its nose pointed upward and is panting. Its skin will also appear to be flushed.

The Need For Heat

• Many stores sell a thermometer that records the high and low temperatures for a given period of time. This device is helpful to ensure that the temperature doesn't get too high or too low without your knowledge.
• No matter what heating device you choose you want to make sure your hedgie stays warm. Some people find this is a bigger problem in the summer with air-conditioning that in the winter months.
• When hedgehogs get too cool they are likely try to go into a form of hibernation/estivation. Hedgehogs will not eat and they become less active which can be very dangerous for your pet.
• Once a hedgehog has attempted hibernation it is more likely have the problem again in the future
• The more constant the temperature the more beneficial for your hedgehog.
• All direct heat should be applied only to a portion of the cage. This can allow the hedgie to move to a cooler part of the cage if it gets too hot.
• In case of a power outage you should have a back up plan as to how you will keep your hedgie warm.
• Refer to our Keeping Your Hedgehog Warm guide for more information.

Hedgehog Health

Hedgehogs do not require routine vaccinations but we do recommend an annual veterinary visit for well pet care. This will keep you acquainted with your veterinarian and your veterinarian acquainted with your pet. Your vet may be able to spot problems that you don't recognize.

It is extremely important to pick up your hedgehog and inspect it every day for signs that something may be wrong. Our little friends cannot communicate that they are injured or ill so it is up to us ensure their health and safety. It is much easier to treat a minor problem or illness rather than to let a problem go unnoticed until it is severe and much more detrimental to your pet.

Not Eating

It is not uncommon for hedgies to skip their first meal in their new home. Sometimes hedgehogs are just too busy sleeping or exploring to take the time to eat. I do recommend taking the wheel out of the cage for the first couple of nights so your hedgehog can adjust to its new home. Make sure your hedgehog is warm and comfortable and that they have easy access to their water bottle or dish. It is a good idea to keep your hedgehog on the same diet for at least a month to make sure it is well adjusted to its new home. Try new foods gradually instead of introducing a new food "cold turkey". If a hedgehog doesn't like a new food it simply won't eat.

Green Poops

Green poops can be caused by stress, diet change, travel, infection or anything else that might upset the digestive tract. It occurs because food moves through the digestive tract much too quickly. The green color caused by bile, which would normally break down in digestion. Green poop that is caused by traveling or change in environment should clear up in two to three days. If it lasts longer, an antibiotic from a veterinarian may be required.

Dry Skin

Hedgehogs can have dry skin without having mites. Low humidity, diet, bedding or just the general nature of your hedgehog may cause dry skin. You can make a homemade oatmeal soak by placing a handful of oatmeal in cheesecloth or panty hose and the putting it in a warm bath with your hedgehog. Aveeno makes a product for human babies that is an oatmeal shampoo which also works well. In extreme cases you can put a couple of drops of olive oil directly on their skin to help sooth some of the dryness. A small amount of flaxseed oil may also help dry skin as well as be beneficial for digestion and overall good health. If the dry skin doesn't clear up your veterinarian may want to check for mites or fungus.

Mites

The most common health problem in hedgehogs is mites. Mites can be contacted through bedding or other animals. Signs of mites include dry flaky skin, scratching, redness of skin and or scabs or sores. If you suspect that your hedgehog has mites the best thing to do is to seek treatment from a veterinarian. Revolution has become the most popular treatment for mites (compared to the traditional use of Ivermectin).

References

Standing Bear, Z.G. Hedgehogs in the Great Outdoors. IHA News. May-June 2006; Volume 8, Issue 2.

Millermeade Farms would like to thank the following individuals for their input and editing skills:

Lori Keller:

Michelle Mulllikins: Prickly Creek Exotics: www.pcexotics.org

Litter Pan Potential

• Litter pans are included in our combination packages because we believe it is well worth your effort to try and litter train your hedgie.
• A litter trained hedgehog will save you cage cleaning time, decrease the amount of bedding needed, and increase the freedom you have with your pet.
• Litter trained hedgehogs are obviously much more suited to "free-roaming" in their own room or in an area of your home or apartment.

Probability of Use

• I once heard that it was a "Crap Shoot" whether or not your hedgehog would use the litter pan. I tend to agree!!
• Some hedgehogs take to the litter pan and use it right away with little or no coaxing.
• Other hedgehogs refuse to use their litter pan despite any attempts on your part to try to teach your hedgehog the purpose of the litter pan.
• One former customer emailed us and told us that their hedgehog suddenly started using the litter pan when it was two years old. Better late than never!
• Some hedgehogs prefer to use their litter pan as a sand or dust bath rather than to elimination. Dust bathing does no harm and is simply a natural thing for a hedgie to do.
• Another customer emailed us an told us that their hedgie was careful to potty on one side of the litter pan and dust bath in the other.
• Your litter training success will depend partly on your patience and persistence and partly on their personality.

Placement and Style

• The litter pan should have a front low enough for the hedgehog to easily climb in and should be large enough for the hedgehog to climb in and turn around.
• We prefer ferret corner litter pans because they are high on the sides and back and low in the front. They also take up less cage space than other styles.
• Position the litter pan as far as possible away from the food dish or place the litter pan wherever the hedgehog chooses to use the bathroom.
• Placing the litter pan in a favored potty area is the simplest and quickest method for success.
• One customer told us that their hedgehog decided to use the igloo as a litter box. So, she put litter in the igloo and has had success ever since. I guess some hedgehogs just like to potty in private!

Substrate

• We suggest using a different substrate in the litter pan than what is used in the rest of the cage.
• Non-clumping, clay kitty litter a relatively popular substrate for litter pans however, some hedgehog enthusiasts recommend against using all clay litters.
• Clumping kitty litter should be avoided because it can stick to the delicate areas of your hedgehog.
• Some people prefer dust-free litter but it is not absolutely necessary.
• Refer to the Bedding Guide for more substrate ideas.
• Another suggested way to start is to use the pelleted pine in the litter pan and use a puppy pad or cage liner on the rest of the cage.
• Some breeders do recommend using the same bedding in the cage and litter pan.
• Ultimately you will have to figure out what works best for you.

When to Start

• Ideally you will start training your hedgehog as soon as you get it home. The younger you start training the more likely you are to succeed.
• We suggest leaving the wheel out of the cage the hedgehog's first few days in its new home. This will help the hedgehog establish a routine before it becomes a wheel-a-holic and starts to use the wheel as a litter pan.

Training

• Not all hedgehogs instantly use the litter pan but don't give up because with a little coaching on your part it may be persuaded.
• Place droppings inside the pan to help clue in the hedgehog where it should go. Litter box training hedgehogs is very similar to cats.
• You may be able to observe certain clues that your hedgehog is getting ready to potty. As soon as you see these signs you will want to hurry and put your hedgehog in the litter pan.
• Most hedgehogs will need to relieve themselves shortly after waking up. This is a good time to watch for signs that they are going to begin to eliminate and then place them in their litter pan. Just after eating is another good time to watch for signs that your hedgehog should be placed in the litter pan.
• Some hedgehogs start using the litter pan on their own even after months of no interest.

Accuracy

• Very few hedgehogs are going to be accurate 100% of the time.
• Wheels can have a tendency to cause hedgehogs to forget all about using the litter pan.
• Some hedgehogs make a total mess of their wheels while other hedgehogs are considerate enough to stop and hang their rear off the wheel before doing their business.
• Unfortunately there is no fool-proof way to guarantee litter pan accuracy. Patience, persistence, time, and a little luck may lead you and your hedgehog to success.

• Bathing
• Nail Trimming
• Observing Feet & Legs

Bathing

• Many hedgehogs love to play in warm water and will enjoy themselves during bath time.
• We prefer to give hedgehogs a bath in a sink or a bathtub. Hedgehogs are prone to relieve themselves in the warm water so we prefer to use our laundry sink. The laundry sink it is easier to change water than in the bathtub and it is away from where we prepare food.
• Hedgehogs that like to swim may enjoy the bathtub and a kitchen sink can be disinfected after use if other options are not available.
• Even though hedgehogs are good swimmers one should never leave a hedgehog unattended.

• Frequency
  • You will know your hedgehog is ready for a bath when it looks dirty, has dry skin, "poopy boots" (dirty feet from, well, you know!), or anointed spots of dried "stuff".
  • Hedgehogs do not groom or clean themselves like some animals.
  • Some hedgehogs need baths frequently and others seldom need one.
  • Bathing generally helps to relieve dry skin but hedgehogs bathed too frequently may contribute to dry skin

• What You Will Need
  • Make sure to gather all your needed supplies before you start. You will need soap or shampoo, a soft toothbrush, and a towel.
  • The temperature of the water should be warm, similar to what is comfortable for a human baby. Many water safety devices are on the market for checking water temperature.
  • A piece of indoor-outdoor carpet in the bottom of the sink makes the sink less slippery for your hedgehog and it helps clean the hedgehog's feet and nails.
  • A non-slip bathtub mat may also be helpful.

• Bath products
  • Some veterinarians recommend only water but most hedgehog owners use some type of bath products to help clean and soften the skin.
  • Always watch the skin for signs of irritation to bath products.
  • You can make a homemade oatmeal soak by placing a handful of oatmeal in cheesecloth or panty hose and hold it under the warm, running water. Squeeze the oatmeal to release the milky colored emollients in the water. Oatmeal soaks are great for dry skin.
  • Most tear-free baby shampoos are safe to use on your hedgehog. Our favorite is Aveeno oatmeal baby shampoo but other breeders prefer Johnson's and Johnson's lavender baby wash. Trial or sample sizes work well because a little bit will go a long way.
  • Pet shampoos are generally safe for hedgehogs.
  • Bathing is a popular topic on hedgehog Internet lists and some suggestions I have read on the lists are very mild tea-tree bar soap, chamomile and oatmeal or lavender soaps found at the health food store.

• Preparing the Water
  • The temperature of the water should be warm, similar to what is comfortable for a human baby.
  • Many water safety devices are on the market for checking water temperature. This type of product can be found in the infant or bathing section of stores
  • We recommend using one to three inches of water in the sink or bathtub. Some hedgehogs like to swim in a little deeper water and others are more comfortable walking around in more shallow water.

• Technique
  • It is fairly normal for hedgies to poop, pee, and fidget in a bath until they get used to the idea.
  • It is easiest to wash a relaxed hedgie so you may want to give your hedgehog a little time to get used to the water and relax its spines.
  • Lathering a little soap in your hands then rubbing it on your hedgehog tends to be easier than applying the soap directly to your pet.
  • Use a soft bristle brush or an old toothbrush on the hedgies spines and feet.
  • Avoid getting water in the hedgehog's eyes, ears, nose and mouth.
  • Rinse all the soap from your hedgie because soap residue can cause dry skin as well.
  • Wrap your hedgie in a dryer warmed towel or warm up a towel with a hair dryer on a low setting. Keep one hand in the towel with your hedgehog so you can make sure your hedgehog is not getting too warm. It isn't a good idea to use the hair dryer directly on your pet.
  • Make sure the hedgehog is completely dry after its bath to prevent chilling.

Nail Trimming

• Hedgehogs have nails similar to humans. Their nail is relatively clear and they have a quick at the end.
• Some hedgehogs will require their nails trimmed more frequently than others (every couple weeks) but some hedgehogs wear their nails down during their play.
• Nails that are too long on the front feet can curl under and damage and deform the foot, inhibit normal walking, or increase the risk of infection.
• The nails on the back feet seldom curl under but if they are too long they can make walking difficult.

• Techniques
  • We use baby nail clippers to trim hedgie nails.
  • After a bath is usually the easiest time to trim nails because the nails are softer and the hedgehog is more relaxed.
  • One method is to hold the hedgehog in your hands, grab a paw and let someone else trim the nail. This can be done in the water or while being held immediately after the bath.
  • Be careful not to twist the leg or over extend it. A firm grasp is good but pulling and tugging could be dangerous.
  • Another method is to put your hedgehog on a screen or aquarium lid. Hold the screen at an angle and the hedgehog will grip the screen to hang on. This will make it easier for you to pick-up a foot.

• Cutting the Quick
  • Cutting the nail too far into the quick or nail bed it will cause it to bleed but it will not cause permanent damage.
  • You can use Styptic powder (this may burn), a blood-stop product such as Stop Quik, or finally cornstarch or flour to help stop the bleeding.
  • It is a good idea to have blood-stopping products available or on hand before you actually need them.

Observing Feet and Legs

• While daily observations of your pet are important bath time may provide an occasion when you may have better lighting and a more cooperative pet.
• It is important to carefully observe your hedgehog's feet and legs. Loose threads from a variety of sources, human hair, and carpet fibers can all wrap around hedgie feet. The extent of the resulting damage can range from mild discomfort to loss of blood supply to the foot and subsequent need for amputation.
• Refer to our Signs of Good Health guide for more detailed information on what else to look for when observing your pet.

Words of Caution

• Many heat sources are available through a variety of sources. We have yet to find the perfect heat source that will work under all conditions.
• Anything that plugs in has potential to short out and cause a fire, overheat and cause burns, or fail to work.
• One must be cautions with overhead heating options so that they aren't knocked over causing burns, injuries or fires. Also, hedgehogs can over-heat in a small aquarium that is not well-ventilated.
• The best heating options seem to be maintaining an appropriate ambient room temperature or heating only a portion of the cage so that the hedgehog can move away if it gets too hot.

Heating Options

Heating Pad

• You can use a human heating pad under half the care or under the area where the hedgehog prefers to sleep.
• The heating pad must be adjusted so that it is not too hot. Sick and injured animals have been known to burn themselves on heating pads. The animal doesn't realize that it is too hot or it is unable to move from the heat. Many of these burns are not visible from the outside but internal damage will be obvious a couple days later.
• Many new models of human heating pads have an automatic shut off. Look out for the automatic turn offs because the hedgehog will not have consistent heat.

Reptile Heating pads

• Many under tank heaters designed for reptile use will also work well for hedgehogs.
• You must read the instructions to make sure the stick on mat won't get too hot for your cage.
• Most under tank heaters must be applied directly to the cage so that air does not flow between the cage and the heating element.
• We found that Zoo Med's Hermit Crab heater will create a nice warm spot in on small section of the cage. It is enough to create a nice place to sleep but it will probably not be sufficient for temperatures lower than 72°F.
• Remember to use safety precautions recommend by the manufacturer

Space Heaters

• Some people are able to use small ceramic space heaters.
• Remember to use safety precautions recommend by the manufacturer.
• The heaters themselves don't get hot and aren't very expensive to run.
• Heaters do cycle on and off so it is important to monitor the highs and lows during its cycling.
• You may have a problem keeping a large area at a warm enough temperature.

Micro-Heat Disc or Snuggle Safe Heat Disks

• These 12" plastic disks are designed for use as puppy warmers and are found with the dog and puppy supplies at some larger pet stores.
• The warmers are about an inch and a half thick and about the size of a medium size Frisbee.
• They are made from a hard plastic (usually bright pink) and can be wrapped in a towel or placed in a cover designed specifically for them.
• These warmers are supposed to stay warm for 12 hours and many hedgie owners use them and like them but when we tested them ours didn't quite work so well

Heat Bulbs

• Heat lamps are another option.
• We suggest a black or red bulb so the hedgehog's natural light cycle is not disturbed by having continuous white light.
• We have never used heat lamps on hedgehogs but we have customers that have reported good results.
• These are not the safest options for Plastic containers or aquariums. A low watt bulb and close monitoring MAY work but other options would be better.

Heat Rocks

• Heat rocks are a ceramic rock that gets hot and is traditionally used for reptiles.
• We do not recommend heat rocks because they can get very hot and they are not easily regulated.
• They are usually an odd shape and difficult for the hedgehog to sleep on.

Warming Up a Cold Hedgehog

• A hedgehog that is cold or feels cool to the touch is in serious danger.
• Captive bred hedgehogs are not as accustomed to hibernation and can die from to them what is an unnatural torpor.
• Warming up a hedgehog too quickly can do more harm than good. A warm, gentle heat is preferred over forceful direct heat.
• Our most successful method for warming a cold animal is direct human body heat. Hold the animal in your hands, tuck it in your shirt, or whatever other method feels comfortable to you.
• Heating pads can also be useful but one must be careful not to overheat or burn an animal that is too sick to move away from the heat.
• Also, don't assume that the external heating device is doing the trick when in fact it may not be warm enough.
• An animal that has gotten too cold and recovered is more susceptible to future incidents.