Cage Selections

• Choosing a cage is one of the important decisions you will have to make for your pet. Your hedgehog's home and environment are one of the keys in determining the quality of life and longevity of your pet.
• You should discuss cage recommendations with your breeder prior to purchasing a new home for your pet.
• Your hedgehog's cage will need to plan on purchasing a cage from your breeder (who will appreciate your support) or be completely setup BEFORE bringing your hedgehog home.
• Your cage MUST have a solid bottom. Hedgehogs' feet are very different than other animals that can tolerate a wire bottom.
• Some enclosures have an open top. An adventurous hedgehog may try to escape. We believe it is easier and safer to prevent an escape than to locate a missing hedgehog.
• Keep in mind that hedgehog's have piled things against the side of a cage in order to escape!

Cage Size Requirements

• In the wild hedgehogs are reported to travel 4-7 per night so it is best to provide the largest space possible for your new pet. Hedgehogs with plenty of room tend to be healthier and happier because they can exercise and explore.
• Without adequate room, a hedgehog can show signs of depression, such as excessive sleeping, refusal to eat, repetitious behavior, and self-mutilation. (Wikipedia)
• Hedgehogs need plenty of room to move about and play. The minimum size recommended by most hedgehog enthusiasts is 24" x 24" which equals 576 square inches or four square feet. Your cage should have enough room for a wheel, litter box, and sleeping bag or nest box, and eating area.
• To double-check the size adequacy of your cage simply measure the length and width in inches and multiply them together. Your cage size is adequate if that number is 576 or larger. Your cage is probably too small if the number is smaller than 576.
• Smaller cages have been recommended over the years (we were told to start out with a 10 gallon aquarium) but they are certainly not the ideal and will not accommodate the recommended wheel, hidey places, toys, litter area etc.

Things to Consider

• Ventilation – plenty of air circulation is important for your hedgehog's health.
• Ability to let in light – hedgehogs need a traditional day and night cycle.
• Cost – explore the various ways in which you can provide the most floor space for your pet to accommodate exercise and accessories.
• Ease of Cleaning & Disinfecting – if it is a pain to clean you will get tired of cleaning and either clean less or decide your pet is too much work.
• Escape Proof – you don't want your new pet to escape! It is better to be cautious than sorry.
• Ease in Heating – you want to make sure that you can easily add extra heat sources so that your hedgehog always stays warm.
• Safety – make sure your cage has no sharp edges or holes. We also suggest strongly evaluating the pros and cons of cages with ramps, levels and multiple layers.

Please review our other cage articles for the pros and cons of each cage option

• Wire cages with a solid bottom and a deep pan are often used as hedgehog cages.
• They are well ventilated and easy and safe to heat with a ceramic heat emitter.
• One advantage of wire cages that are specially designed for ground dwelling animals such as guinea pigs, rabbits, and hedgehogs is that there is more floor space than in an aquarium, birdcage and some modified cages.
• Cages of this type are strong enough to adequately house hedgehogs and most are able to protect them from other pets and small children. There is however, a huge difference in quality and some brands are easily damaged in daily maintenance.

Pans

• Pans that are six inches deep or deeper are preferred to more shallow pans. Deep pans not only contain the bedding within the cage but they also discourage the hedgehog from climbing.
• Plastic pans are generally preferred over metal pans. Both are lightweight but plastic will not rust and plastic will maintain it integrity over time. Metal that has begun to rust is harder to clean and disinfect than plastic. Metal will also conduct heat much differently, which may be a problem when trying to provide additional heat sources for your pet.
• Wire floors are NOT acceptable for hedgehogs. Their tiny feet can get caught in the wire and it is very difficult for the hedgehog to walk.

Wire Sides

• Some hedgehogs are tempted to climb the sides if the pan is not deep enough. This is dangerous because the hedgehog can tangle his/her foot or fall from the top, escape, or be so persistent that they rub a sore on their nose.
• Should you notice that your hedgehog climbs the wire of the cage you will need to line the bottom edge of the cage with a smooth material that discourages climbing.
• Lexan is a clear material found at most home improvement super stores. It can be easily cut with tin snips and shaped and molded to fit your cage.
• Plexiglas and acrylic are very durable but fairly difficult to cut and relatively expensive.
• Coroplast is a sign making material found next to the poster board in most stores. It is cheap and easy to cut however it is solid and can inhibit hedgie visibility.
• Some breeders recommend ½" wire spacing to prevent the hedgehog from getting their head stuck between the wires of the cage and to prevent babies from escaping.
• Coated wire is absolutely the best for longevity of the cage.
• The deep pans on our cages tend to prevent climbing and general head poking so the wire on our cages does appear to be adequate even though the bar spacing is farther apart.

Why are Marchario cages more expensive than some brands?

• We have tried countless cage options over the years and have been remarkably impressed with this style of Marchioro cages.
• The pans and wire top are strong and durable.
• Many brands of similar cages have pans that are made of thinner and more brittle plastic. Hedgehogs are not typically hard on the cages but we certainly want something that will withstand cleaning and transporting.
• The wire top is not easily bent and each top corner is held together with a two-part connector and the bottom corners are held together with a corner bracket. My children have climbed on the cages, sat on the cages, and played inside the cages. Your hedgehog will not be as rough as my children, but a tough and durable cage will last longer and be an overall better value for your dollar.
• Another impressive feature of this cage are the door locks, brackets that hold the top to the pan, handles, and braces that hold join the top and/or sides. Again, these features set this cage apart from other options.

This style of cage is popular with many breeders.

Advantages

• Clear plastic tubs can be purchased relatively cheaply.
• They are lightweight and easy to transport.
• Storage containers can be easily cleaned and disinfected.

Necessary Modifications

• Almost all bins need a modified lid to prevent escape.
• Hedgehogs can easily escape up and over bins using water bottles or accessories to give them a boost.
• Ideally, the top is modified to have a screen or grid and the sides are drilled or cut to have most of the center removed. The lid cannot be used unless it is modified.
• A lid with holes drilled in it is not adequate.
• A drill may crack the fairly fragile plastic so be careful drilling the side holes.
• Soldering irons melt the plastic but don't look as neat and tidy.
• The plastic can be heated with a hair dryer and then cut with a utility knife.

Disadvantages

• One problem with plastic tubs is finding one large enough and tall enough to accommodate the wheel and other accessories without customizing your cage. You can cut out a section of the lid to allow the wheel to move freely and then glue an appropriate sized smaller bin over the top to provide a "dome" over the wheel to prevent escapes.
• Some hedgehog owners connect several tubs together to create a habitat large enough for their pet. This option works well if you have creativity and plenty of space.
• You can purchase "clear" cages but even the clear style does inhibit easy viewing of your new pet. Many of our customers enjoy watching their hedgehogs, which is difficult to do with this style of housing unless you are standing directly over the cage.
• Solid color storage tubs are often larger and sturdier than the plastic tubs but we recommend against them because they have practically no visibility for your hedgehog. One must also take into consideration the hedgehog's need for environmental stimulation when choosing housing for your pet.
• The plastic nature of the bins make them difficult to heat.

Cautions and Final Reminders

• You must be careful when using additional heat sources with these cages.
• Under-tank heaters can melt the bottom plastic.
• Heat emitters or heat lamps may cause problems with the top of the cage.
• The tall sides may block heat from a nearby space heater.
• Lids can be left off if you know the hedgehog cannot escape but solid hiding places or hanging water bottles can be used to give your hedgie a boost up and over the top.
• To prevent the chance of escape it is a good idea to use the lid and modify it to allow adequate ventilation and keep your pet secure.

Glass aquariums

• Large aquariums can be used to house hedgehogs.
• Some hedgehog enthusiasts recommend at minimum of a 20-gallon long size but the larger sizes are much better. A 20-gallon aquarium will not accommodate an appropriate sized wheel.
• The main drawback of using a glass aquarium is that most aquariums are narrow and tall in order to best display fish or reptiles. Hedgehogs need lots of floor space and in order to have the floor space you will need a large aquarium.
• The larger the aquarium the more costly, heavier, cumbersome, and difficult it is to clean. For this reason they are not ideal unless you already have a large aquarium in your possession.
• It is important to use a screen or wire top and NOT the glass covering used for fish. This will allow better ventilation into the aquarium.
• A tight fitting lid is necessary on a cage that is less than 18" high or any cage that has a hanging water bottle. Hedgehogs can climb right up water bottles or use accessories to boost them up and over the top.
• Even large aquariums may have ventilation problems if not cleaned frequently.
• Unless you already have an aquarium on hand they can quite costly to purchase.

Wading Pools

• Children's wading pools can be ideal housing if you have plenty of space and take a few precautions to prevent escapes.
• These pools have plenty or room for hedgie play and some people use these pools as a supervised play area.
• You must make sure there are no accessories that can be used as ladders to boost your hedgehog up and over the top of the pool.
• One way to make the sides taller is to cut out the bottom of a second pool and invert it over the top of the first one. The edges can be riveted, stapled, or screwed together.
• Wading pools are inexpensive and can be hosed down outside to clean.
• It is somewhat difficult to attach a water bottle so a water dish may be necessary.
• The disadvantages of this style of housing are that they are cumbersome and that they will block the view of your pet.

C & C Cages

• C & C cages (Cubes and Coroplast) are an easy do it yourself project that may work for an adult hedgie. http://www.guineapigcages.com
• The grid in the cubes may be too large and allow smaller and young animals to squeeze through and escape or to get stuck and possibly injured.
• These types of cages were initially intended for guinea pigs, which do not climb or do not jump great heights.
• While hedgies do not jump, they can and will climb so if you are intent on using this type of caging you may want to consider using a top as recommend at the website: http://www.guineapigcages.com/types.htm
• Some of the benefits to this type of caging are that the ventilation is more than adequate, and you can make a very large and spacious cage in many different configurations accommodating a wheel, litter pan and many toys.
• If you have more than one hedgehog and they are housed together, these cages can also be good since they will allow the hedgehogs their own space if desired.
• Nicole from Prickly Pair Hedgehogs uses one of these cages for her retired females. These are older hedgies that are not so intent on escaping or climbing and so she doesn't use a top. If you are going to attempt to go "topless", it is recommended that you place the cage on the floor in a hedgie safe room in case of an escape until you know for sure that your hedgehog will stay put.

Wood Built Cages

• The advantage of a wood built cage is that they are completely customizable. Your imagination, talent, and pocketbook are the limits!
• One thing to keep in mind is that the wood must be waterproof. Marine paint can be used to coat the wood but it must be completely dry and aired out before you place your pet in it.
• Antigone Means described putting linoleum flooring in the bottom of her cage.
• Wood cages can be quite bulky and hard to maneuver for cleaning if not designed properly.
• Good ventilation is a must so again, one must have good planning in the design.

Kennel Cabs

• Kennel Cabs have been suggested as housing options for hedgehogs.
• This recommendation came about many years ago when hedgehogs first became popular as pets.
• It was once believed that hedgehogs benefited from the darkness but breeders have come to realize that a normal day and night cycle is important.
• The advantages of these cages are that they are easy to obtain, used ones are rather inexpensive, they are light weight and easy to clean.

• We feel that multi-level ferret or rabbit cages, climbing branches, ramps, and ladders are only a good idea for your hedgehog only if you take several precautions.
• We recommend avoiding the above situations because providing more floor space with accessories or toys is a much safer alternative.
• Hedgehogs are quite capable of climbing up, but they are not so graceful in the descent.
  • Their toes are fairly short and are not made for grasping and hanging on.
  • Their legs are relatively small in comparison to their body mass. They simply do not have the strength to resist the pull of gravity.
  • Their eyesight is very poor and so they have very little depth perception.
• The most natural way for hedgehogs to get down from a high place is to curl themselves into a ball and free-fall.
• Many claim that hedgehogs have naturally built in “shock absorbers” and that their spines will protect them in a fall. However, hedgehogs may still bruise him self or break a bone from an ill-fated fall.
• It has also been reported that spines can actually puncture backward into the animal.
• In order to provide a safe climbing experience some hedgehog owners use multi-level ferret or rabbit cages and line the ramps with plastic mesh or cover with an all-purpose carpet. This keeps little feet from being injured but might be quite messy if the hedgehog is not litter trained.
• The bottom pan of multi-level cages should be padded with several inches of shock absorbing bedding.
• Most hedgehog experts would agree that tree branches and ladders are NOT a good idea.
• Try think of ideas that encourage your hedgehog to burrow or tunnel instead of climbing. New material, sand (clean and disinfected such as what is used for reptiles) in the corner, or other ideas would stimulate burrowing.

• Cages should be placed in a warm, comfortable room in an area that is free from drafts and should not be placed in direct sunlight.
• Normal sunlight in a room is fine but temperatures in direct sunlight can be much higher than in the rest of the room.
• Be cautious of placing your hedgehog's cage directly under a ceiling fan. This can provide quite a draft for your hedgie.
• Millermeade Farms and our customers have found that hedgehogs seem to prefer the warmer end of the temperature range and are most comfortable between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Some references indicate that hedgehogs can tolerate temperatures as low as 65 degrees Fahrenheit but it is our experience that temperatures this low can be dangerous for your pet. A chilled hedgehog will attempt a false hibernation and that can be deadly. Lower temperatures can be an environmental stress for your hedgehog, which will affect the overall health of your pet.
• Shelly Fowler, of Beach Bum Hedgehos, had a customer in the winter of 2010 who lost their power and their home got down to 65 degrees. They wrapped the cage in blankets but the hedgehog still died.
• We have found hedgehogs tend to be healthier, more active, and eat better in warmer temperatures.
• Refer to our Keeping Your Hedgehog Warm guide for more information on this subject

Free roaming is used by some enthusiasts and is acceptable providing that you have ensured your hedgehogs safety in every aspect.

For the best outcome for you and your hedgehog, it is best if free roaming is limited to one room in your home that you can devote to your hedgehog.

Advantages of Free Roaming

• Free roaming provides highly ample space for your hedgehog to explore and exercise. This may be especially beneficial for larger hedgehogs prone to obesity.
• Cageless hedgehogs are likely to be more active than caged hedgehogs.
• Extra freedom may allow your hedgehog's personality to be expressed.

Dangers of Free Roaming

• Keep in mind that if your hedgehog is one of those that will not litter train, you will have urine and feces to clean off your floors on a daily basis. Be extremely careful with carpet cleaners as Lori Keller, experienced hedgehog rescuer, had a terrible experience with carpet cleaning products.
• You will need to consistently monitor the room for potential dangers. A free-roaming hedgehog is more prone to accidents than a hedgehog confined to the safety of its cage.
• "Hedgehog-Proofing" is a lot like "Child-Proofing" in which this is a job almost never done. You can hope to provide the most hedgehog resistant room, but your hedgehog will most likely find something that you have missed.
• You will need to watch your step and do the "shuffle" walk while walking in the room. (you slide your feet across the floor and do not lift them up, this way you can't accidentally step on and crush your hedgehog.)
• Wearing socks or bare feet and not shoes can also help prevent an underfoot accident from occurring.

Preparing for Free Roaming

• You will need to ensure that adequate temperatures can be provided and that any use of electrical devices are used in the safest way possible.
• This includes keeping electrical cords out of reach, and that the heating elements cannot be reached by a hedgehog seeking a warm spot.
• Furniture in the room should be high off of the floor, rocking chairs, glider rockers etc, should not be used for obvious reasons.
• Couches and upholstered chairs will be used as a hiding spot and if there is a hole underneath in the lining you can be assured that your hedgehog will find it and climb up into your couch or chair. This can result in a squished or trapped hedgehog, and for their safety, are not recommended.
• For the same reason, reclining furniture should not be in the room.
• Small items on the floor will need to be watched for as well.
• Your hedgehog can choke or have an intestinal blockage on buttons, coins, zipper pulls, snaps, paper, paper towels, tissues etc.
• Paper seems to be irresistible to some hedgehogs and they will chew and consume any they can get to. Not only can they receive a blockage from ingesting paper, the dyes and inks used in the paper could be toxic to your hedgie.
• Strings and hairs will also need to be checked for daily as these can wrap around your hedgies leg or toes resulting in loss of blood flow, infection and/or amputation of the limb or appendage.
• You will need to ensure that your hedgie cannot escape the room and that other household pets cannot enter.
• A hedgehog will climb anything it can get its claws hooked into or that will provide a boost.
• Be careful about plants in the room, hedgehogs would love to play in the dirt, and may also nibble on the leaves which may be toxic. Even if a plant is up high, leaves and flowers do drop down and may be taste tested by your hedgehog.
• Your hedgehog will need to have easy access to food, water and litter box at all times, as well as hiding places, and a warm, secure place for sleeping.
• The above suggestions should also be kept in mind when you are letting your hedgehog loose for out of cage time.
• Make sure your hedgehog is plenty warm. You need to be concerned about floor temperature rather than the temperature at human eye level. Heat rises and drafts are often on the floor.

• We do not recommend the use of perfumes or deodorizers because they can encourage us to be more lax in cage cleaning.
• Dirty cages and resulting build up of bacteria can cause or increase the risk of respiratory and skin infections.
• Our rule of thumb is that if the cage smells bad to use it probably smells really bad to our hedgies!
• The average hedgehog cage needs thoroughly cleaned once a week but spot cleaning may extend the life of the bedding.
• Different types of bedding have different absorbency levels so your cage may need cleaned more of less frequently depending on the size and general messiness of your hedgehog.
• Refer to our Bedding Guide for more information on types of bedding available.
• Pelleted beddings may allow you to sift the good bedding from the soiled bedding to be reused after the bottom has been cleaned.
• It is a good idea to thoroughly wash or soak the plastic bottom when doing a complete bedding change. Plastic can absorb odor and a good disinfection will help to eliminate lingering odors.

Cleaning Products

• Almost every cleaning product should be thoroughly rinsed from your cage before putting your hedgehog back into the cage.
• Nolvasan is a popular cleaning product used by veterinarians and breeders of various kinds of animals. It can be purchased online or through your veterinarian.
• A two step cleaning process with hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar is reported to kill more bacteria and is much safer than bleach. It is non-toxic and effective at eliminating odors. The hydrogen peroxide must be stored in the original dark container and should not be premixed with the vinegar. Either the hydrogen peroxide or the bleach can be sprayed or wiped on with a rag and then the other product applied when the first is still wet.