Nocturnal, Crepuscular and Diurnal Defined

• Animal activity is defined as nocturnal (night time), Crepuscular (twilight – early morning and late evening), or diurnal (daytime).
• Hedgehogs are typically described as nocturnal or crepuscular.
• Our article "Are Hedgehogs Nocturnal, Crepuscular, or Diurnal?" describes this topic in great detail with many sources and opinions on this topic.

Hedgehog Activity at Millermeade Farms

• Almost all hedgehog activity at our farm occurs when we turn off the lights for the night.
• We feed all of our animals in the morning and many hedgehogs come out to greet us, have a snack but all quickly return to their slumbers.
• Throughout the day hedgehogs might get up and get a drink, a bite to eat or to use the bathroom but for the most part there is very little activity.
• However, on cage cleaning days, weaning days, and days we rotate our breeding animals there is quite a bit of activity. Hedgehogs explore and christen their clean cage then typically go right back to sleep.

Are Hedgehogs Lazy?

• You may think your hedgehog sleeps "all the time", but most likely it is active when you are not!
• Customers frequently ask questions about or comment on their hedgehog's lack of daytime activity or "laziness" and wonder if this is normal hedgehog behavior. On my former 'Critter Connection' website I answered this type of question by stating "Hedgehogs are lazy and will sleep all day and are active at night".
• One kind customer pointed out to me the inaccuracy and error of my response. In fact, hedgehogs are NOT lazy because they sleep all day.
• Daytime sleeping is completely normal for a nocturnal or crepuscular animal! My apologies to those who were misinformed or who doubted my credibility and knowledge of hedgehogs because of my choice of words.
• Side Note I need all the editing help I can get and I always welcome a different perspective on a topic or suggestions not included in my guides or articles. I appreciate YOUR time in helping me improve my articles for hedgehog enthusiasts of all levels of experience.

Baby Activity Levels

• Baby hedgehogs sleep quite a bit, and they have a tendency to sleep more after the stress and unusual activity of going to a new home.
• The need for additional sleep is common in both human babies and in other animal babies as well.
• The main indicators of health and comfort are adequate levels of eating and drinking, which are in turn monitored by stool quantity and quality.

Acclimating to Daytime Activity

• The average hedgehog does not mind daytime handling as long as it is given sufficient time to thoroughly wake up. People often expect an immediate positive response to being picked up. Be sure to give your hedgehog plenty of time to "get the sleep out of its eyes" before you attempt to pet or handle your hedgehog.
• Hedgehogs may be gradually become acclimated to daytime activity through routine handling and feeding earlier in the day. However, some may accept this more readily than others
• One can expect interaction outside of the cage in a stimulating environment or while being handled. However, when the hedgehog is returned to its cage it is likely to return to its sleep for its regular nighttime activity.
• No studies have been done concerning the long-term health effects (if any) that may occur due to adapting an animal that is normally nocturnal or crepuscular to a diurnal schedule. Examples of problems resulting from suddenly changing circadian rhythms in humans are insomnia and jet lag. It is best to attempt to change biological rhythms slowly over an extended period of time.

Daytime Handling

• Many hedgehogs will enjoy daytime handling and will take the opportunity to get out of their cage and explore.

***This is just the start of this article. Please email us gail@critterconnection.cc if you have any questions that we can answer in this article. Please include the title of this article (Activity Levels) in the Subject Line. Thank you!

First Line of Defense

• When a hedgehog senses danger its first line of defense is to ball up.
• This classic hedgehog trait is made possible by the orbicularis muscle, which runs along the edges of their body.
• When the hedgehog is frightened it tightens this muscle, that acts like a drawstring, and it enables the hedgehog to hide its head, belly, feet and legs in a prickly coat of erect spines.
• An obese hedgehog may not be able to roll into a tight ball.
• When hedgehogs are nervous, a balled up hedgehog also may snuffle, huffle, snort or pop.
• Hedgehogs that are sick, injured, cold or lethargic may not be able to unroll or they may not be able to ball up. These hedgehogs need immediate veterinary attention.

Shock Absorber

• Hedgehogs will also ball themselves up when they are falling to cushion the impact of their fall.
• Even though the quills act as a natural shock absorber they can still be injured from their fall.
• The quills can actually puncture inwards and injure the hedgehog.

Cruelty

• Hedgehogs are defending themselves as best as they can when they are balled up this does not protect them from human cruelty.
• Some hedgehog owners may think that their hedgehog "likes to be rolled" while it is in a ball, most hedgehog experts will disagree.
• Again, when a hedgehog is in a ball it is trying to protect itself. Please be sensitive to your hedgehog and try to make your pet more comfortable rather than perpetuate its feelings of insecurity.

Behavior Changes

• It is common and normal for new owners to experience changes in hedgehog behavior between the time they purchase their hedgehog and the time a hedgehog is settled in its new home.
• This change can occur for many reasons and by understanding these reasons you can help your hedgehog transition smoothly into your home.
• With patience and proper handling you and your new hedgie will be fast friends.

New surroundings

• First, keep in mind your hedgehog is leaving familiar surroundings.
• It is leaving its cage-mates and home and entering into a strange new world.
• A change in environment and associated affects is often called "shipping stress".
• Animals all react differently to change. Differences in stress levels between animals are even noted at the time of weaning.

Handling Techniques

• Handling hedgehogs is prickly business!
• Owner confidence can range from no fear at all from getting prickled to someone who is basically scared to death of his or her new pet.
• Remember that hedgehogs have great emotion detection. If you are nervous then your hedgehog is likely to be nervous.
• Proper handling is something that is learned and perfected with practice.
• Read and review the tips outlined in our other guides to make sure that you are doing what is best to encourage a good response from your pet.

Quilling

• The quilling process is likely to already have started or will soon start when you take home a baby hedgehog.
• Hedgehogs can have a range of pain and discomfort throughout this process similar to a child and teething.
• Our Quilling article will give you some insight about the process, what you can expect, and ways to ease the discomfort.
• Try to minimize petting if your hedgehog huffs and puffs which are the first signs of discomfort. Instead, continue to bond with your hedgehog by allowing the hedgehog to explore you by crawling on you and to get to know your scent by sleeping on you.
• More bonding tips and information can be found in several of our other articles.

When and Why Biting Can Occur

• Most hedgehogs do not bite.
• However, any animal with teeth CAN bite. The only pets we are aware of that you can hold in your hand that will never bite are millipedes and earth worms (yes, there are people who raise worms for fun!).
• The good news is that hedgehogs' mouths are designed to crush bugs not fingers! Their tiny teeth and elongated jaw make it more difficult to get in a good chomp when compared to the average cranky hamster.
• We don't want to make you fearful of a hedgehog bite but we do want to make you aware that it can happen, what to do, and how to understand your hedgehog's biting.
• Proper understanding of hedgehog behavior will help decrease the risk and/or frequency of biting.

Reasons Why Hedgehogs may Bite

• Hedgehogs are not typically biters out of aggression nor do they bite their main line of defense. Their first line of protection is to curl themselves into a ball.

Scent

• Hedgehogs are very scent oriented. Sometimes you might smell good enough to eat! If you smell good, and taste good through licking… watch out!
• According to Becca Loane in an article on Hedgehog World ,"Another very frequent problem causing scent is tobacco smoke. It is very common for breeders to get contacted by people wanting to get rid of their hedgehogs because they frequently and painfully bite, with the hedgehog stopping their biting immediately when being in an environment without smoking, and handled by people who do not have the scent of smoke on their skin."

Fascination & Exploration

• Young hedgehogs especially may bite simply because it is a way of exploring their environment and getting a "feel" few new smells and tastes.
• All four of my human babies went though this phase too and they had to learn what was appropriate and inappropriate places to test out those chompers!
• Some hedgehogs are particularly fascinated with things you might be wearing.
  • artificial fingernails
  • nail polish
  • rings
  • watches
  • bracelets
  • belly button rings (ouch! )

Communication

• According to Audrey Pavia in her article "Handle Aggressive Hedgehogs" Hedgehogs can be very opinionated, and won't hesitate to let you know when they are unhappy or afraid.
• Hedgehogs use biting as a form of communication since they have limited vocalization skills.
• Some hedgehogs may bite to express their irritation with you because you woke them up too early or tried trimming their nails.
• One of our customers said one of her hedgehogs would bite out of jealousy – if she didn't hold that particular hedgehog first before any other hedgehog, it would bite. Other hedgehogs only bite certain people or if their owners have been gone for a period of time. This type of biting is hedgie frustration or pouting.

Pain and Stress

• Biting may start when they are quilling as a means to express their discomfort. If your hedgehog has never bitten you, and all of a sudden does, it is probably his way of telling you that he is not feeling well.
• New environments and the stress involved can also be a trigger for biting. If your new baby hedgie nips at you, don't be discouraged. He could
• just be asking for a little space while he settles in.
• Some female hedgehogs will bite as a way to protect their litter.

Nesting

• Miss LK said that her hedgehogs Mocha and Koda would sometimes-accidently bite when they were trying to rearrange her shirt to make a nest when no blankets were available.
• One of our customers told us that their hedgehog had a habit of biting but when it was given a small piece of fleece to carry around, as a blanket the hedgie was content as could be and didn't bite at all!

Bad Behavior

• Some hedgehogs have simply learned to bite to get their way. It is possible to teach hedgehogs to stop biting with time and persistence.
• Other hedgehogs simply not been taught that biting is no fun for their owners.

Ways to Help Prevent and Discourage Biting

Hand Washing

• Always wash your hands and rinse them well before handling your hedgehog.
• Some soap may smell nice to your hedgehog and encourage licking and nipping so always be sure to rinse well. You may have to try various soaps if you find your hedgie finds one particularly tasteful.
• Do not handle food or another pet before handling your hedgehog.

Hand Feeding

• Hand feeding treats may encourage your hedgehog to associate your flesh with food.
• Feeding tongs and syringe feeding treats are ways to bond and give treats without sending your hedgie the wrong message about your fingers!
• See out Hedgehog Treats article for more information on syringe and tong feeding.

Careful Handling

• When your hedgehog begins to lick open your hand until it is completely flat. Gently move your hedgehog around in your hands away from the spot it is licking. It will be harder for your hedgehog to nip flat hands or a moving target
• Always be relaxed and calm when handling your hedgie.
• If you are in a hurry, agitated or frazzled your hedgie will pick up on your mood and feel insecure which could lead to a bite. Make sure you are focused on your hedgie when you are handling and in the right frame of mind.
• If your hedgehog tends to be a biter, you can use this idea from the( hedgehog-faq) "Purchase an inexpensive pair of work gloves, rub your hands briskly with the outside of the gloves (or sleep with them for a night), to get your scent all over the gloves.
• Put on the gloves and pick up your hedgies and hope it bites! Then push back into his mouth – not too hard, but firmly." This will help the hedgehog associate biting you with something unpleasant, while at the same time saving your skin!

Pay Attention to Your Hedgehog's Needs

• Watch for signs that your hedgehog is:
  • Tired
  • Scared
  • Frustrated
  • In Pain
  • Trying to Get Down
  • Prevention is the best cure

How to Stop Your Hedgehog From Biting

What to Do If You are Bitten

• Don't be discouraged!
• Don't Panic. Most are just tiny little "nips" that feel like pinches, and there is not much to be done other than to try to figure out why you were bitten and how to prevent it in the future.
• However, if the bite breaks the skin you will want to wash the area directly with soap and water, treat with an antibiotic ointment and cover with an adhesive bandage.
• While serious injury is extremely rare use your discretion, and if you are at all concerned, a visit to your doctor may be warranted. Any puncture wound from anything from a nail to an animal bite can become infected.

How to Encourage a Hedgehog to Release a Bite

• Hedgehog enthusiasts tend to disagree on what is the best method to stop a bite. What one person might consider safe and effective another person might view as cruel.
• Regardless of your behavior modification preference, should your hedgehog actually latch on to your skin, don't pull back! This can actually cause more damage to your skin, instead, push towards the back of your hedgie's mouth. This tends to cause your hedgehog discomfort and they will subsequently release your flesh.
• One of the most common and quickest methods of getting a hedgehog to release its grip is to blow a quick puff of air directly up the hedgehog's nose. It won't hurt your hedgehog but may startle it enough to let go. Be careful though, this might make an irritated hedgehog more irritated or a shy hedgehog even more fearful.
• Many people have found that a splash of water or a quick dash under running water will shock the hedgehog into releasing. Of course you will need to ensure that your hedgehog is properly dry before retuning it to its cage.
• A tip from experienced hedgehog breeder and rescuer, Dawn Wrobel, found on www.faqs.org is to use a Q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol to touch the end of the nose. According to Dawn in the FAQ even the most insistent biter will be dissuaded in three or four applications.
• There are other enthusiasts that feel the alcohol method is cumbersome and may cause more aggravation than what it is worth.
• Be cautious with tapping the hedgehog on the back while the hedgehog has a grip on you. As indicated by Small Animal Channel Expert Jill Warnick, may make your hedgehog even huffier around you.
• My personal method of teaching human babies not to bite and Lori Keller's favorite way to teach ornery rescue hedgehogs not to bite is to simply scream like the dickens when you get bit. This startle technique lets the biter know that a negative reaction happens when they bite. It is also a good healthy way for the one being bitten to relieve their stress!

Time Out

• The reason a hedgehog bites will determine if you should immediately return your hedgehog to its cage after a bite.
• Normally friendly hedgehogs that bite out of spontaneous bad behavior can be returned to their cage as a form of punishment.
• A grouchy hedgehog that wants down should not be returned to its cage because it will be rewarded for its bad behavior.

Hedgehogs Biting Each Other

• If you have more than one hedgehog and when they are together, you notice them biting each other's quills, this may be a pre-cursor to anointing or a fight.
• Often, hedgehogs will chew on each other's quills and then anoint with the smell of the other hedgehog on their quills. (Justice)
• One might also notice biting accompanied by singing during the mating process. This is coming in many animal species and not to be of much concern.
• Hedgehogs CAN bite and injure each other. Ear and leg injuries can easily happen when two hedgehogs are trying to establish territories.
• If one hedgehog has latched onto another hedgehog and won't let go, don't try to pull him off. If you pour a tablespoon or less of water over his face, it will startle him enough to let go. (Justice)

In conclusion bites do not really happen that frequently, but you should be prepared in the event that it does.

Natural instinct

• Hedgehogs sleep during the day in any dark place they can find.
• In the wild, they may hide in vacated burrows from other animals, under rocks, or in thick vegetation, but they typically dig a shallow burrow of their own under some form of cover.
• They enter and exit their burrows headfirst so the burrows or hiding places must be large enough for the hedgehog to turn around.

Cage Activity

• In captivity, hedgehogs still enjoy burrowing and if a hedgehog escapes it will hide in any dark quiet place it can find.
• Ideally, the hedgehog's cage is large enough to provide an igloo or other object in which they can hide. This not only provides hedgehogs with environmental enrichment but with a better sense of security as well.
• The Lixit igloo and a sleeping bag provide a great place for a hedgehog to burrow in its cage.

Escaped Hedgehog

• When a hedgehog escapes it will almost always look for a place to burrow and hide.
• Some of these places may include: in shoes, behind appliances, under furniture, under clothes.
• Usually hedgehogs will travel around the outer edges of the room first looking for a place to hide.

Handling Challenges

• Many hedgehogs will try to burrow into their human to find a warm cozy place to sleep.
• Almost all hedgehogs will root and wiggle their way into the crook of your arm to find a warm place to sleep if they are given an opportunity.
• Some hedgehogs are adventurous enough to try to crawl up sleeves or even pants legs.

Normal Behavior

• Hedgehogs are quite active in the wild and running laps around a cage can be great forms of exercise.
• Hedgehogs can run in circles or even get elaborate and run in a figure eight.
• We've seen athletic moms bowl over toddler babies headed for the food dish when they've gotten in her way!
• Hedgehogs in the wild frequently run circles as well. (HHC)
• Some hedgehogs may pace at the front of their cage in anticipation of exercise or feeding time. This is normal behavior as long as it stops once it is fed or removed from its cage.

Abnormal Behavior

• Obsessive and compulsive pacing occurs when animals are confined in cages that are too small.
• Hedgehogs with a physical problem may also turn in circles, often with their head tilted at an angle. This kind of circling needs immediate veterinary attention.

Naturally Neat?

• Some hedgehogs might be considered naturally clean and tidy. They use their litter pans faithfully and leave their cage pretty much as the owner has arranged it.
• Other hedgehogs are frankly – slobs.
• Most hedgehogs are somewhere in the middle. Their cage will need to be tidied but it won't take more than a minute or two each day.
• Unfortunately there is no way to look at a baby hedgehog and tell how their personality will grow and develop.

Cage Trashing

• Some hedgehogs routinely rearrange their cage furniture by dragging, pushing or shoving over their wheel and other large accessories.
• They drag their blankets and sleeping bags around their cage and scoot around their cage liner.
• Other hedgehogs might turn over food dishes, and knock off water bottles. Having heavy food dishes and a quality water bottle hanger will certainly help this problem.

Litter Pan Use or Lack Thereof

• Some hedgehogs take to using the litter pan as if using a litter pan were the most natural thing in the world.
• Hedgehogs that use litter pans are obviously much neater and require less maintenance than hedgehogs that view the litter pan as something that merely shares their cage space.
• Other hedgehogs flat out refuse to do their business in a designated spot.
• The most common spot for hedgehogs to have "accidents" is on the wheel. Sometimes when they are on the go they just have to go. So, wheel cleaning may be part of your daily or weekly routine. Lining the wheel with Glad Press N Seal will help cut down cleaning time on poopy wheels.
• There have been more than a few hedgies that have chosen to use their food dish as a litter pan as an expression of their disgust over an empty food bowl or some other hedgehog injustice.
• More tips and tidbits on litter pans can be found in our Litter Pan article.

Need for Bathing

• Many hedgehogs seldom have a need for a bath. Once or twice a year for these hedgehogs will suffice.
• Other hedgehogs may insist on self-anointing with anything and everything. White or lighter color hedgehogs tend to self-anoint with food or poop in attempt to blend in better with their environment. Obviously these hedgehogs may need more frequent baths than those who do not self anoint.
• Finally some hedgehogs need their "poop boots" from messy wheel habits washed and cleaned.
• Unfortunately there is no way to determine if your hedgehog is going to be in the minority of hedgehogs that need baths on a regular basis.
• Our Bathing and Nail Trimming article has more details on this subject.

Climbing

• Hedgehogs will attempt to climb and are often quite adept at climbing up, but once they are on their way up, their bodies present for them a challenge.
• Hedgehog bodies are not designed for the task of climbing.
• Their body mass is not proportioned for climbing. Squirrels, monkeys, and other things that climb tend to have long and narrow bodies rather than short and round.
• Hedgehogs' limbs do not have the strength to support their round body mass when climbing, and gravity naturally works against them.
• Can you imagine a sumo wrestler mountain climbing? Their weight would be out of proportion making their climb both difficult and potentially dangerous.
• Hedgehogs have four feet instead of hands and feet like other animals that climb. Hedgehogs simply don't have the strength in their feet to grasp and hold on like animals that have hands.

The Descent

• As described earlier, hedgehogs' paws are designed for walking similar to our feet and not built for grasping or holding on to things like our hands. Therefore, their descent from a climb is not graceful at all and in fact can cause serious injury.
• Hedgehogs will typically roll into a ball when making a descent from various heights.
• Their spines absorb much of the shock from the fall and a tuck and roll technique helps most escape without injury.
• Compared to humans falling from a comparative distance they do much better than we would.
• However, hedgehog can get injured. My kids jump off the swing set quiet frequently without any problems but it only takes one move to break an arm or worse. Hedgehogs might be fine falling for 2,0001 times but it only takes a second for an injury.
• Hedgehogs have little depth perception, so they may fall or walk off of ledges that are too high and their spines can actually injure them internally.
• Hedgehogs will not jump from your hands like a mouse or other animal but they will walk right off your hands.

Preventing Injury

• First, we suggest a deep plastic pan or other type of cage bottom that will prevent the hedgehog from attempting to climb.
• Hedgehogs will often use cage accessories to give them a boost up the side of the cage so you may need to move accessories toward the center of the cage.
• Lexan or plexiglass can be cut to line the interior portion of wire cages should your hedgehog decide to take up climbing on a regular basis.
• In addition to climbing prevention we also suggest a cage with a secure lock to prevent escape.
• Even large plastic tubs are not escape proof. Low ventilation holes, interior cage attachment such as a water bottle, or boosting accessories described above can give a hedgehog just enough to boost to climb up and out of the cage.

No Need to Chew

• Hedgehogs are NOT rodents, they are insectivores, and so their teeth do not continue to grow throughout their life.
• Therefore, they do not need to wear down their teeth by chewing or gnawing.
• Hedgehogs are not destructive and do not destroy their surroundings like rodents.
• Even though hedgehogs aren't prone to chew wires it is still wise to use caution with electric cords and other potentially dangerous items.
• If you buy your hedgehog something to chew on like a wood block or a ball, it will most likely just ignore it or push it around with it's snout. If you buy something flavored and textures for rodents the hedgehog may attempt to lick it to get the taste and it has been noted that hedgehogs can cut their tongues on these textured surfaces causing more harm than good. (Hedgehog Wiki: Hedgehog Chewing and Biting 12/15/09)

• If a hedgehog tastes something it likes, it will preferentially lick it first and if it believes it is edible or wants to anoint is will proceed to mash its teeth together on it. This mashing is not the same as chewing... the hedgehog is not trying to break apart what it is mashing on, but instead trying to mix the taste with it's saliva. This basically means it will not try to bite off a piece of the object, but just try to moisten the flavor in it's mouth. (Hedgehog Wiki: Hedgehog Chewing and Biting 12/15/09)

Leather and Clothing

• Hedgehogs do tend to have an affinity for leather items such as leather shoes. A stinky shoe has entertained many hedgehogs!
• Some hedgehogs will nip and tug on clothing.
• When given a small piece of fleece (approximately 2 inches square) some of these hedgehogs will carry around their fleece squares like a security blanket.

Hedgehogs have been described as "cute and cuddly" as well as "cactus mammals". So which is it?

What is cuddy?

Are they soft and fluffy like a puppy, kitty or your favorite teddy bear? No way!!

But….

Can they snuggle into the crook of your arm and fall asleep? Absolutely! Can they fall asleep on your chest while you enjoy a movie reclining in your favorite chair? Certainly! Do they ever "melt" in the palm of your hand as you scratch its favorite spot? Definitely!

When a hedgehog is completely comfortable and relaxed it can put its spines down laying them completely flat. A relaxed hedgehog is easy to handle and may let you pick it up, rub its belly and scratch its back all without a single poke or prickle.

When a hedgehog is NOT relaxed and comfortable it is a prickly little cactus and certainly not cuddly by any stretch of the definition!

Lap Pet Potential

• Many hedgehogs enjoy a good movie. Seriously! As mentioned above if you sit back in your favorite chair and allow your hedgehog to snuggle into you what could be more comfortable than a warm, human pillow?
• The big "BUT" is that your hedgehog has to trust you. It must feel comfortable enough with you to relax.
• Building hedgehog trust doesn't always happen over night but with patience, persistence, and an understanding of hedgehogs you certainly can earn your hedgehogs trust.

The Hedgehog Sport of Human Mountain Climbing

• There are some hedgehogs that would rather explore and investigate than take a nap. (I have kids like that!!)
• They may view you as a mountain to conquer and a nap and a cuddle is only necessary after an invigorating work out.
• Just because an active hedgehog isn't cuddly at first it may cuddle after its curiosity has been fulfilled.
• A hoodie pocket or a sleeping bag may encourage an active hedgehog to nap on your schedule.

Aggression

• Hedgehogs are not aggressive by nature.
• They do not seek out to attack in an offensive manner when they feel threatened.
• Instead, hedgehogs are shy and can easily feel threatened when confronted with something new and different in their environment.
• Their spines are used as defense only when they are scared, nervous, or feel they have reason to protect themselves.

Defense Mechanisms

• Hedgehogs that are mildly threatened or startled will simply lower their visor or the quills on their forehead to protect their eyes.
• The most obvious hedgehog defense is to curl up in a ball and use its spines to protect its head and vulnerable underbelly.
• Huffing or puffing is a hedgehog's way of appearing more threatening than they really are and to ward off potential harm.
• Hedgehogs can click or pop as a way to poke human hands or any other critters that weren't intimidated by the huffing and puffing.
• Hedgehogs that feel threatened may use their visor or forehead quills to ram a potential harm.

Balling-Up

• This classic hedgehog trait is made possible by the orbicularis muscle, which runs along the edges of their body.
• When the hedgehog is frightened it tightens this muscle, that acts like a drawstring, and it enables the hedgehog to hide its head, belly, feet and legs in a prickly coat of erect spines.
• When hedgehogs are nervous, a balled up hedgehog also may snuffle, huffle, snort or pop.

Baby Hedgehogs

• Young hedgehogs are especially prone to pooping on you, but they typically get better as they get older.

Wake Up Ritual

• Many animals (including humans) have to go to the bathroom when they wake up after a nap or a night's sleep.
• While the body is resting it is still processing foods and wastes.
• Hedgehogs are no different and they normally have to go to the bathroom within 20 minutes of waking.
• It is a good idea to have a litter box or paper towel handy at the beginning of playtime.

Litter Pan Usage

• Some hedgehogs use the litter pan faithfully when they are first introduced to it.
• Other hedgehogs flat out refuse to use a litter pan.
• One hedgehog owner reported that her hedgehog suddenly started using the litter pan at the age of two.
• The benefits of a hedgehog using the litter pan are well worth the small investment and effort required to set one up.
• Hopefully litter box use will occur in the first week or so from coming home. See our Litter Training Article for more information on this topic.

Wheel Pooping

• Hedgehogs can have a very unpleasant habit of pooping on their wheel. It is almost as if they are having so much fun running on the wheel they can't take the time to stop and get off the wheel.
• Anyone who has potty trained a preschooler knows that sometimes playing is way more important than proper potty habits.
• Unfortunately there is not a lot you can do to stop this bad habit.
• We encourage holding off on putting the wheel in the cage until after the hedgehog has established a good bathroom routine.

• One way to discourage wheel pooping is to limit wheel use. This may not always be practical but may be helpful in some cases.
• Wheels may need to be cleaned anywhere from nightly to weekly. One way to speed clean up is to line the wheel with Glad's Press N Seal. The Press N Seal can be removed and replaced.

Hedgie Gifts

• Even after hedgehogs have bonded with you and outgrown their baby phase adult hedgehogs may still have occasional "accidents".
• Many hedgehog enthusiasts joke that poop is a hedgie gift. When your hedgehog is not scared of you and gives you a little gift, you can rest assured you have made a friend!

Explore Mode

• When your hedgehog uncurls it will most likely begin to explore and start to check out its surroundings.
• Some hedgehogs are brave explorers and will immediately uncurl and start walking on your hands. Others will start out by sniffing and duck their head at the slightest of noises.
• Hedgehogs will not jump but they will walk right off your hands. As your hedgehog walks off one hand move it in front of it so it has a new walking platform.
• Hedgehogs are not "fast" when compared to other animals but when a hedgehog starts moving in your hands it will certainly seem quite speedy.
• As your hedgehog gains confidence exploring in your hands it will gain confidence in you.

Are Hedgehogs Truly Grouchy or Are They Simply Misunderstood?

Understanding Hedgehog Behavior

• Hedgehogs are typically naturally shy creatures that tend to fear the unknown.
• Their poor eyesight but heightened sense of hearing, motion detection, and emotion detection makes them sensitive to how their environment and how they are handled.
• When a hedgehog is nervous or scared it will ball up and use its spines not as a form of aggression but as a form of protection.
• You must prove yourself trustworthy before a hedgehog will completely relax with you.
• Hedgehogs with health issues may also be less responsive to handling. An uncomfortable or sick animal may rather be left alone. Quilling is an example of a normal process that can be very uncomfortable for a hedgehog and can impact how the hedgehog prefers to be handled.

Owner Responsibility

• Proper handling is critical to a well-socialized hedgehog and is probably the most important factor in whether or not a hedgehog will make a good pet.
• Hedgehog owners need to learn to understand a hedgehog's subtle ways of communicating and behavior and then respond accordingly.
• Owners also need to learn:
  • When to handle
  • How to pick up and hold a hedgehog
  • What can cause a hedgehog to be scared or nervous
• Bonding is also an important part of the socialization process and will occur over time
• Patience is probably the most important virtue in hedgehog socialization and in a new pet owner.
• We provide our customers information and tips on this topic in our Care and Handling guides.

Quality Time versus Quantity Time

• My 10 plus years of experience has led me to believe that the more time spent with an animal does not always equal a better response from an animal.
• Your actions (quality time) tend to make a larger impact on an animal than the amount of time (quantity time) you spend with that animal.
• Certainly the amount of time with an animal is important but what you do with the animal during that time is far more important.
• You can handle a hedgehog the wrong way a long time and get no where in the bonding or socialization process.
• However, handling your pet the right way and responding to its needs will dramatically speed up the bonding and socialization processes.

Learned Behaviors

• Many grouchy hedgehog behaviors such as clicking, popping, and huffling are learned responses to how they are handled.
• At Millermeade Farms we never allow people to reach in and touch a hedgehog in its cage without picking it up. When a hedgehog senses something coming down upon it they naturally huff and puff to protect their self. The hedgehog quickly learns that it should huff and puff when a hand approaches or that it is going to be picked up when a hand approaches so it knows what to expect.
• Also, hedgehogs become more nervous about the picking-up-process when the person picking it up is nervous and makes several attempts to pick it up without actually picking it up. Imagine a nurse preparing to give you a shot but instead of giving the shot confidently the nurse has to aim at you six times before she makes the plunge. I'd want another nurse and I but the hedgehog would want a different handler.

Born Grouches

• Some animals (and children) are just born grouches. How animals are handled and the patience they are given can greatly alter their adult personality.
• On occasion animals (and children) are grouchy because they have something wrong that is making them uncomfortable. Hedgehogs owners have reported that their hedgehogs were more comfortable and therefore more relaxed and friendly when they added additional heat sources to their hedgehog's cage.
• More often than not, a "grouchy" hedgehog can be coached to come out of its grouchiness with proper handling and a lot of patience.

Abused Hedgehogs

• It is unfortunate that some hedgehogs, like other pets, are abused both intentionally and unintentionally.
• Intentional abuse can include neglect and deliberately cruel behaviors.
• Unintentional abuse occurs when individuals simply do not understand proper pet care and handling. Pet owners have said their hedgehogs like to be "bounced on the bed" or "rolled on the floor" like a ball. Some people, and often time children, are simply ignorant of what is cruel to pets.
• Hedgehogs do not cope well with abuse and abused hedgehogs may not ever enjoy being handled. This is important to remember when adopting an older hedgehog.

In the Wild

• European hedgehogs hibernate in the wild when the temperature becomes too cold. They spend the warmer months building fat reserves to sustain them through their periods of in activity.
• African species of hedgehogs in the wild may go into a dormant period of activity called aestivation when the weather is too hot and dry in the summer.
• Hedgehogs are very vulnerable when they awaken from hibernation or aestivation (or estivation). In this weakened state hedgehogs are easy targets for predators and others are simply unable to fully recover and die from related illnesses.

In Captivity

• Hedgehogs in captivity also can go into periods of partial-hibernation.
• Indoor room temperatures that are too cool can induce a false hibernation attempt.
• Some hedgehogs attempt hibernation in response to barometric pressure changes or external temperature changes even though the
• indoor temperature is acceptable.
• These hibernation attempts for the pet hedgehog are very dangerous because your hedgehog is likely to simply waste away and die.
• Captive bred hedgehogs have generally lost the ability to recover from hibernation and need immediate attention.
• Aestivation attempts are rare for pet hedgehogs but are equally as dangerous.
• Hedgehogs living in captivity should be kept in a controlled environment to help prevent hibernation or aestivation.

Signs and Symptoms

• The hedgehog is cool to the touch.
• Hedgehogs may become lethargic to the point it may not unroll or they may not be able to roll up at all.
• The hedgehog may appear to be in a deep sleep called torpor.
• Unsteady or shaky on its feet if it does unroll. *This should not be confused with wobbly hedgehog syndrome. Hibernation wobbliness has a sudden onset and is often completely treatable.
• Decrease in appetite or complete cessation of eating.

Cause

• A decrease in ambient room temperature or a draft can cause your hedgehog to become too cool and start the hibernation or slow down process. Hibernation can be induced at temperatures as low as 68˚F.
• Shortening of daylight hours in the fall may also cause your hedgehog to attempt hibernation.
• Barometric pressure changes or sudden drop in outdoor temperatures.
• Once a hedgehog hibernates it is more prone to future hibernation attempts.

Immediate Treatment

• It is very important to start to warm your hedgehog immediately but very slowly.
• You can place your hedgehog under your shirt next to your body. This method is probably the prickliest but the safest, and quickest. You will know your hedgehog is warmed up and ready to go when it starts moving around and you can't keep it in one place.
• You can also warm your hedgehog on a heating pad or by wrapping it in towels warmed in the dryer.
• NEVER LEAVE UNATTENDED WITH A HEATING PAD. Serious burns and death may result.

Veterinary Treatment

• Once you have begun to warm up your hedgehog take your hedgehog to a vet to determine it is truly due to hibernation and not a life-threatening illness.
• Delay in care for many illnesses can results in death.
• It is best to have an exotic vet lined up in advance so that when you need their assistance you will be able to get your hedgehog the care
• it needs more quickly.
• Not all veterinarians treat hedgehogs and others may not take emergency cases.

Long Term Treatment

• Once your hedgehog is warmed up and active again you will need to take extra precautions to ensure that this doesn't happen again.
• Increase the room temperature if at all possible and monitor for fluctuations during the day and night.
• Check for drafts in the room by lighting a candle and watching for a flicker in the flame. Drafts may only be an issue with high winds if your cage is near a leaky window or drafts can occur from heating or cooling vents.
• You can add heat to the cage by using a Snuggle Safe Disc (Puppy Warmer that is microwaveable and good for 12 hours), a reptile heating pad that adheres to the bottom of the cage, or a black or red heat bulb over the cage.
• Avoid the human grade heating pads that turn off after a certain length of time and reptile heat rocks that can get way to hot to the touch.
• The best way to monitor the daily high and low of the temperature in your hedgehog's cage is a digital High/Low thermometer that can be purchased at stores such as Radio Shack.
• It is also important to maintain regular day and night light cycles. Use a light during daylight hours if natural sunlight is not enough.
• Covering a cage for warmth will decrease the amount of light within the cage. A natural light cycle is important in preventing repeat hibernations.
• Choose warm, fluffy bedding that will help conserve body heat. Layers of fleece or vellux will provide a cozy place to snuggle.

For more information about hibernation and aestivation in wild hedgehogs check out www.hedgehogcentral.com There is an excellent article there titled "Hibernation – Good or Bad?" on this site.

Understanding Huffing, Puffing, and Popping

• When you first pick up your hedgehog it may have its spines erect and it may make some defensive noises.
• Huffing and Puffing is a way for a hedgehog to say "I'm big and bad".
• It is a sign that your hedgehog is threatened and scared, nervous, or possibly unhappy.
• When a hedgehog huffs and puffs it is trying to intimidate what is making it feel defensive.

Big Scaredy Cats

• Hedgehogs are usually shy when introduced to something new.
• They are often born scaredy cats and need to learn that they are safe.
• So, it is quite natural for the hedgehog to be scared or nervous and the huffing and puffing noises are an attempt to scare you away.
• Hedgehogs still have much of their wild instincts - including a fear of potential predators (and this includes humans!), due to the fact they have a limited defense system and limited eyesight.
• Until your hedgehog knows who you are and that you have good intentions it is simply trying to communicate its uncertainty with you.
• When you take your hedgehog from its home and move it to a new environment it may have to relearn that it is safe in its surroundings.

Bed Heads

• Keep in mind your hedgehog may have been woke up.
• Daytime for us is actually the middle of the night for your hedgehog.
• Not too many people enjoy getting woke up from a sound sleep so your hedgehog may be telling you "Hey, I just woke up. Give me some space."
• Once your hedgehog has its proverbial "cup of coffee" and gets the "sleepies" out of its eyes it is likely to be happy to play and explore.

What to do about Huffing, Puffing, and Popping

• Listen to your hedgehog's "language" and watch the way you handle your hedgehog to see what causes them to increase their shyness.
• Picking up your hedgehog properly is the first step in minimizing huffing, puffin, and popping.
• We don't encourage glove use but if you need gloves to pick up your hedgehog with confidence it is better to use gloves than make both you and your hedgehog more nervous.
• Once you have your hedgehog out of its cage the best thing to do is nothing! Simply hold your hedgehog in your hands out away from your body (explore mode) and wait.
• Don't attempt to pet your hedgie, but simply allow it to come out of its ball and begin to explore on its own. Once your hedgehog relaxes it will begin to lay down its quills and move around on your hands.
• When you hold your hedgehog near your body it will sense your clothing and it may try to burrow into your clothes. Your hedgehog is less likely to lay down its quills when it is close to your body.

Avoid Provocation

• DO NOT provoke your hedgehog to huff or hiss by touching its tines while it is in its cage or on the floor. This encourages the hedgehog to react this way every time a human hand comes near it.
• Always pet your hedgehog while it is in your hand. Never reach into the cage to pet your hedgehog unless your hedgehog is completely comfortable with you.

Nocturnal vs Crepuscular vs Diurnal

• The time of day during which animals are awake are generally described as nocturnal, crepuscular or diurnal. Hedgehog enthusiasts from beginners to experienced owners often confuse the exact definitions of these terms. I frequently confuse the terms diurnal and crepuscular myself.
• Animals that are awake primarily at night are said to be nocturnal whereas animals that are awake during both late evening and early morning are said to be crepuscular. Diurnal animals are those who are awake during the daytime.
• Some hedgehogs may exhibit crepuscular activity, meaning they are active in early morning and early evening but hedgehogs are generally considered to be primarily nocturnal in nature.
• No matter how the hedgehog is technically defined or described, each hedgehog is going to have his or her own schedule of activity or routine.

Built for the Dark

• Many hedgehog experts and enthusiasts agree with Heather Johnson at www.hedgies.com that hedgehog senses are adapted to work best at night.
• Whether naturally active at night only, or dawn and dusk the point is hedgehogs are active when the levels of light are very low or even pitch black. Hedgehog activity typically isn't so much as an hour of the day rather than a level of light.
• Hedgehogs have very poor eyesight so their other senses are sharper to compensate for this weakness.
• Generally speaking, the world is much more calm and quiet during the night. Hedgehogs are known to be naturally timid and afraid of new things and/or strange sounds and smells. There is less noise, movement, and distraction on the part of humans for pet hedgehogs.
• One of the simplest ways to observe hedgehog activity is to use a red or black night-light. This type of light will allow human observation but does not seem as offensive to creatures of the night.
• Some people think that a hedgehog is a perfect pet for them because they are awake at night. Keep in mind that a hedgehog's activity is more closely related to light rather than time of day. Unless you are awake in the dark or low light you might be surprised how much the hedgehogs sleep at night.
• Hedgehogs need daylight to maintain their circadian rhythms so please do NOT keep them in a dark room, closet or someplace that does not have a day and night cycle. More on this topic can be found at the bottom of this article.

For more information on this topic check out our "Activity Levels" article where the following topics are discussed:

• Hedgehog Activity at Millermeade Farms
• Are Hedgehogs Lazy?
• Baby Acitivty Levels
• Accilmating to Daytime Activity
• How Much is too Much Handling?

Naturally Shy and Nervous but Curious

• This classic hedgehog trait of balling up is made possible by the orbicularis muscle, which runs along the edges of their body.

Signs of Affection

• Some hedgehogs do not display outward signs of affection while others can be quite affectionate towards their owners.
• Hedgehogs do not typically come when called or actively seek out human interaction.
• Cats and dogs are drastically different in personality and affection. If you are looking for an attention seeking and affection giving pet you may be sadly disappointed.

Training Potential

• Our best comparison of hedgehog intelligence is to that of a hamster.
• Hedgehogs may learn certain behaviors through positive reinforcement or conditioning but only at a very basic level.
• Hedgehogs can in no way be disciplined. The hedgehog is naturally shy and defensive so any negative action on your part will only hinder the bonding and handling process.
• Some hedgehogs can be trained by basic Pavlovian methods. A hedgehog may learn that a certain sound is followed by a certain action and the hedgehog may anticipate or prepare for that action.
• It is doubtful that you will ever be able to "control" your hedgehog. Instead you will learn to understand your hedgehog and your hedgehog will in turn learn to respond positively towards you.

Personality Molding and Shaping

• We strongly believe that hedgehog personality is shaped and molded through owner interaction. Proper handling and consideration of the hedgehog's needs is critical to successful socialization and bonding as well as enjoyable pet ownership for both you and your pet.
• Naturally shy hedgehogs can usually be won over but some hedgehogs may always seem "grouchy".

Transitional Personality Changes

• It is common for people to notice a personality "change" in their hedgehog once it reaches its new home. This is generally due to the stressors of changing its environment and having a new person take care of it. You will need to be patient, and keep working with your new pet.

Scent Marking & Other Nasty Habits

• Hedgehogs do not spray or scent-mark their territory like other animals.
• Males do not have a stronger odor than females and can only be physically distinguished from females by differences in their genitalia.
• Some male hedgehog owners do report self-stimulation of their male hedgies. This most frequently occurs at night and is not something that is widely disturbing to the average pet owner.They do self-anoint as described in our Self Anointing article.

"Bed Head"

• Hedgehogs often scratch a bit when they first wake or after they are handled.
• One might compare this scratching to fluffing out a "bed head" hairdo.
• When I wear a ponytail my scalp is often tight when I take out the ponytail. Hedgehogs skin may also feel tight or need scratched when their quills are out of alignment.
• Some hedgehogs scratch when nervous or exploring. Again, this is a habit you may seen in humans

Quilling and Dry Skin

• Quilling also will cause scratching because it appears to be uncomfortable when the new spines are working their way through the skin.
• Dry or dirty skin also might cause scratching.
• A bath and olive oil treatment should help both of these problems.
• Check out our Quill Loss and Quilling, Dry Skin, and Bathing Your Hedgehog Articles for more information on these topics.

Mites

• Mites are the first thing people typically think of when they see their hedgie scratching.
• Other signs of mites will most likely be present other than just an occasional itch if mites are the true cause of the problem.
• Signs of mites include:
  • Loss of quills with a flaky root rather than a healthy root bulb
  • Visible mites or mite droppings
  • Scratching and itching to the point where the hedgehog leaves marks on its body
• Unless there are other obvious signs of mites we suggest treating giving your hedgehog a bath and olive oil treatment.
• A trip to the vet may be necessary if excessive itching continues or if other signs and symptoms of mites accompany the scratching.
• Check out our Mighty Mite article for more information on this topic.

What it Is

• Probably the strangest and most unexplainable of all hedgehog behaviors is the practice of self-anointing.
• It is completely normal and causes no harm to your hedgehog.
• It isn't uncommon for new hedgehog owners to think their hedgehog is having a seizure or vomiting.
• Hedgehogs can self-anoint at a very early age even before their eyes are fully opened.
• Some references refer to self anointing as "anting"
• The first sign that a hedgehog is going to self-anoint is they will show a fascination with a particular odor or taste.
• Substances that can provoke self-anointing include chemicals, perspiration, leather, perfume, hand lotion, soaps, traces of food on your hands (especially garlic), and excrement.
• Male hedgehogs tend to anoint more than females.
• Light colored hedgehogs tend to look messier with anointing and anoint more often than the darker hedgehogs.

How It's Done

• They will lick or chew the object of interest and create foamy saliva or lather that they will then deposit on various parts of its body.
• Sometimes self-anointing goo is confused with vomit however vomit is more slimy than frothy.
• Your hedgehog is likely to chop its teeth or chew at the substance to better create the anointing froth.
• You may see your hedgehog twist and contort in a variety of funny positions as they spread this foamy saliva on their body using their surprisingly long tongue.
• Hedgehogs that anoint frequently or that anoint with a particularly colorful or smelly substance may need a bath.
• Many hedgehogs become so engrossed with this activity that they become totally oblivious to anything going on around them! (HHC)

Reasons for Anointing

• The reasons hedgehogs self-anoint are still unknown, but it is usually related to a new or pleasant smell.
• Some believe anointing is as a form of scent camouflage designed to cover up their own sent with the new scent in the environment for protection.
• Others believe the hedgehogs like the scent so well they want it on their body similar to our "perfume."
• Hedgehogs are resistant to many toxins and one theory is that hedgehogs spread toxins on their quills as added protection or as a repellant to its enemies.
• Another possible explanation is that they are trying to remember a particular smell by mixing it with the saliva and then depositing it on the spines. (HHC)

Cautions

• Hedgehogs may lick and self-annoint with things that could be poisonous to them.
• Be cautios of houseplants, cleaning chemicals, other animal feces etc.

Signs of Affection

• Some hedgehogs do not display outward signs of affection while others can be quite affectionate towards their owners.
• Hedgehogs do not typically come when called or actively seek out human interaction.
• Cats and dogs are drastically different in personality and affection. If you are looking for an attention seeking and affection giving pet you may be sadly disappointed.

Are Hedgehogs Solitary or Social?

In the Wild

• Hedgehogs are normally solitary in the wild, only coming together for breeding purposes.
• Males do not help raise the babies and babies leave the mother shortly after the weaning process.
• Hedgehogs search and scavenge for their own food and do not depend on other hedgehogs for hunting purposes.

Solitary

• There are many books and hedgehog references that cite that hedgehogs are solitary creatures and should only be housed individually.
• Certainly hedgehogs are not social animals that live in colony settings as do sugar gliders and prairie dogs or the ever so famously social meerkats.
• They do not pair for life as do many types of birds and do not form natural bonds with other hedgehogs in the wild.
• Housing hedgehogs singly is the safest means of housing and is not detrimental to the average pet.

Weanling Babies

• Young hedgehogs often prefer to sleep together and do better after the weaning process if they are kept in small groups rather than housed individually.
• Weanling babies should be housed separately by gender by the age of eight weeks.

Cohabitation Success

• We have seen many cases of cohabitation success and many rescues frequently cohabitate compatible hedgies.
• Some hedgehogs actively strive to be with other hedgies. We have had females that appeared happiest when they were either in breeding or with babies. When the hedgies were alone they spent a considerable amount of energy trying to escape to join another hedgehog.

Cohabitation Risks

• One disadvantage to cohabitation is that you cannot be sure of the food intake or fecal output of either animal.
• Carefully watching for obesity in one animal or unusual thinness in another on a regular basis may help to alert the owner if any problems are developing. Routine weighing may also help identify problems that may not be caught right away otherwise.

Female Cohabitation

• Many hedgehog breeders and owners have found that captive bred female hedgehogs may prefer and even crave companionship and will go to great lengths to be with another hedgehog.
• Females that are raised together have shown some bonding tendencies, but it is not absolutely necessary to purchase multiples for companionship.
• Raising females together can be a positive experience for both hedgies but one must also be prepared to separate them should squabbling or trouble arise.

Male Cohabitation

• It is best not to house male hedgehogs together because they may start fighting at the onset of sexual maturity.
• Hedgehog fights may be quite loud, or their quarreling could go unnoticed until one is injured.
• Some males may perform courtship routines and mount another male.

Fighting and Dominance

• Some huffing and puffing is completely normal between hedgehogs as their noise is one of their main forms of communication. Squealing however, can be a sign of aggression and should be closely monitored.
• Occasionally fights can break out and injuries can result from serious squabbling. The most common types of injuries are torn ears and bites on the legs and along the quill skirt.
• We have observed that fighting is most likely to occur between adult hedgehogs or young adult hedgehogs that have not always been cage mates.
• Weanling hedgehogs typically cohabite fine as long as the same groups are maintained.
• Based on the best chances of cohabitation success, females have the least risk for fighting. One hedgehog is likely to dominate the other hedgehog. Dominance may become an issue with food and if one hedgehog is "hogging" the food the two hedgies may need to be fed separately.

Chances of Cohabitation Success

• The following percentages or odds of having successful companionship is based solely on my 10 plus years of hedgehog owning experience as well as my experiences breeding and owning other types of animals.
• These percentages are my own personal beliefs and if I were betting on cohabitation success how I would place my bets.
• Two females raised together – 95% chance of success
• Two males raised together not in the presence of females – 85% chance of success Two females introduced later in life – 75% chance of success Two males introduced later in life – 25% chance of success

*Please keep in mind that to my knowledge, there have been no scientific studies done on successful cohabitation of hedgehogs. The above listed chances of cohabitation success are my own "educated guesses" and other breeders are likely to have their own educated guesses that are different from my own.

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Spine Language

• Body language and facial expression is a common form of communication in both humans and animals.
• One can tell many things about a hedgehog just by paying attention to a hedgehogs' body and spine language.

Spines

• The most obvious and famous form of hedgehog body language is by using its spines.
• When the spines are up – not good. When the spines are down – very good. This would be our equivalent of a smile and a frown.
• When your hedgehog is scared, angry, or upset, it generally does not want you to touch it. The goal is to help your hedgehog relax and become comfortable so that it can be handled more easily.

Eyebrows

• My youngest daughter has what we call "Angry Eyebrows". There is no doubt when she is upset. When your hedgehog's eyebrows are pulled down and are covering its eyes or face – guess what – it is upset!
• My little girl is liable to get super upset if you mess with her when she has her angry eyebrows and your hedgehog will too.
• Angry eyebrows don't always mean "angry" with hedgehogs. They can be scared or uncertain too.
• A good rule of thumb – "If you can't see its face, give it some space!"

Face

• If your hedgehog is curious it will have its head popped out and nose just a twitching.
• Its spines might be up or down but its eyes will be clearly visible and it will be looking around.
• Should something startle your hedgehog such as a sudden movement or noise it may quickly pull its eyebrows down over its face for protection.

Forehead Furrow

• Hedgehogs have a natural part or furrow of skin on their forehead that is void of spines.
• A hedgehog needs this furrow to pull its eyebrows over its face for protection.
• You can only find your hedgehog's forehead furrow it is completely relaxed. This is a very good thing!

Tail

• The most common reason a hedgehog will stick its rear and tail out – it has to poop. Get ready to clean up a mess or hold it over something!
• Females ready to breed may also stick out their tail and display herself for the male.

Training Potential

• Our best comparison of hedgehog intelligence is to that of a hamster.
• Hedgehogs may learn certain behaviors through positive reinforcement or conditioning but only at a very basic level.
• Hedgehogs can in no way be disciplined. The hedgehog is naturally shy and defensive so any negative action on your part will only hinder the bonding and handling process.
• Some hedgehogs can be trained by basic Pavlovian methods. A hedgehog may learn that a certain sound is followed by a certain action and the hedgehog may anticipate or prepare for that action.
• It is doubtful that you will ever be able to "control" your hedgehog. Instead you will learn to understand your hedgehog and your hedgehog will in turn learn to respond positively towards you.

Transitional Behavior

• It is common for new owners to experience changes in hedgehog behavior between the times they purchase their hedgehog to the time a hedgehog is settled in its new home.
• This change can occur for many reasons and by understanding these reasons you can help your hedgehog transition smoothly into your home.

New surroundings

• First, keep in mind your hedgehog is leaving familiar surroundings.
• It is leaving its cage-mates and home and entering into a strange new world.
• A change in environment and associated affects is often called "shipping stress".
• Animals all react differently to change. Differences in stress levels between animals are even noted at the time of weaning.

Handling Techniques

• Handling hedgehogs is prickly business!
• Owner confidence can range from no fear at all from getting prickled to someone who is basically scared to death of their new pet.
• Proper handling is something that is learned and perfected with practice.
• Read and review the tips outlined above to make sure that you are doing what is best to encourage a good response from your pet.

Quilling

• The quilling process is likely to already have started or will soon start when you take home a baby hedgehog.
• Hedgehogs can have a range of pain and discomfort throughout this process similar to a child and teething.
• Our Quilling article will give you some insight about the process, what you can expect, and ways to ease the discomfort.
• Try to minimize petting if your hedgehog huffs and puffs which are the first signs of discomfort. Instead, continue to bond with your hedgehog by allowing the hedgehog to explore you by crawling on you and to get to know your scent by sleeping on you.
• More bonding tips and information can be found in our Bonding guide

Natural Curiosity

• Once your hedgehog is picked up, out in the open, and simply being held, curiosity will most likely get the best of your hedgie and it will begin to uncurl and stick its head out to see where it is and what is going on.
• Angling your hands so the hedgehog's head is just slightly lower than the rest of its body may also help it to come out. It will feel as if it is headed down hill and may come out quicker to see what is going on. Be careful not to tilt your hands too much so that it rolls off your hands.
• A couple of gentle bounces (raising and lowering your hands about an inch) may also encourage your hedgehog to come out and see what is going on.
• Until your hedgehog begins to relax you don't want to try to pet your hedgehog but instead simply talk to him/her and let it know that it is safe.
• When your hedgehog realizes that it is out in the open it will begin to try to move around on your hands.
• Watch for your hedgehog to duck its head. This is its main form of self-defense. Notice what you were doing that caused it to duck its head. Most likely it heard a sound or didn't like the way you are approaching it with your hands.

The Water Method

• Many hedgehogs enjoy spending time in water as described in our Bathing and Nail Trimming guide.
• A bath may help your hedgehog relax and get to know you through the bathing process. Even the grouchiest hedgehogs will uncurl in water.
• Allow a tiny gentle stream of water to run over your hedgehog's back. Many times the sound of the water alone is enough to get a hedgie to uncurl.
• Gently lower your hedgehog into a shallow pan or tub of water and allow your hedgehog to walk around.
• I have never known a hedgehog to drown but certainly if you aren't careful the hedgehog can inhale water or suck water into its lungs.
• Some veterinarians use the shallow pan of warm water method to get their uncooperative patients to uncurl. This allows for a basic visual examination without the need for anesthesia.
• It is very important to make sure your hedgehog is completely dry after its bath. Snuggle time after a bath is also a great time for bonding.

Relatively Quiet

• Hedgehogs won't disturb neighbors in an apartment.
• They don't bark or squawk and aren't likely to make any more noise than a hamster running on its wheel and banging its water bottle.

Communication

• Hedgehogs have a wide range of sounds that they use to communicate.
• You must listen carefully and observe the hedgehog's behavior to clearly understand what your pet is trying to communicate.
• Different people can describe each noise that a hedgehog makes in different terms.
• Some sounds require little or no attention on your part such as the squeaking or chirping of new babies. Other sounds such as clicking or popping should be a clear sign to you that your hedgehog is in defense mode and you need to change how you are handling your pet.
• Hedgehogs might huff and puff, but they will not blow your house down! They are simply trying to tell you to back off and give them some space.
  • Chirping/Squeaking- this sound is often the first indication of new babies.
  • Clicking or Popping - these sounds are the aggressive/defensive sounds that are made when a hedgehog is trying to defend itself.
  • Grunting - may be a sign of contentment.
  • Hissing - these sounds are the aggressive/defensive sounds that are made when a hedgehog is trying to defend itself.
  • Huffing - hedgehogs usually make this sound when they hear something or something is in too close of proximity. Keep in mind that hedgehogs' senses of hearing and motion detection are quite keen and compensate for poor eyesight.
  • Puffing
  • Purring – sign of contentment !! You have a happy hog
  • Screaming
    • This sound is something that you never want to hear. It is a sound of pain or extreme fear.
    • Fighting or accidental injury such as getting a leg caught can be causes for this sound.
  • Singing- strange sounds that are part of the mating ritual.
  • Sneezing – a sign of displeasure, irritation, annoyance, or uncertainty.
  • Snorting - a signs of displeasure, irritation, annoyance, or uncertainty.
  • Snuffling – happily checking thins out (HHC)
  • Squealing
    • You may hear this sound when a fight is about to occur between two hedgehogs.
    • It is a good idea to keep a close eye on the hedgies because injuries can quickly occur during fights.
    • Hedgehogs have been known to make this noise in their sleep with no apparent cause as if they are having a hedgie nightmare.
  • Wheezing – certainly these sounds can be a sign of illness but some hedgehogs are simply trying to have a hedgehog "conversation" with you or are simply checking things out.
  • Whistling – sign of contentment !! You know your hedgehog is truly enjoying your company when you hear this sound.

Cage Commotion

• Wheeling (quiet wheels can dramatically reduce this type of noise)
• Rearranging cage furniture
• Water bottle banging
• Climbing and the subsequent falling (which should be avoided through cage modifications)